Chanterelles and chestnuts at Cantinetta

Omakase, like I had at Shiro’s just the other day, is an exercise of trust. If I were to do omakase at an Italian restaurant in Seattle, I think I’d choose Cantinetta.

Earlier this year, I raved about a bowl of brodo with pork tortellini and ramps that I ate at this gem of an eatery in Wallingford. When I stopped in again recently, I asked Chef Brian Cartenuto if he had a brodo going that particular night. He explained that the menu changes frequently, but beckoned me to sit at the bar to try something similar.

I’m glad I listened to the man. Out came a dish of perfectly cooked tagliatelle with a wonderful combination of pancetta, chanterelles, and chestnuts – all swimming in a shallow pool of comforting chicken jus. With Seattle temperatures dipping into the low twenties these days, I’m tempted to run back in more. Given the sense of seasonality at Cantinetta, that dish won’t be on the menu much longer. But no worries. I’m sure Cartenuto will be ready with another fabulous offering to takes its place.



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