Gastrolust

Like many world travelers, I love to stare at maps. I’m drawn to distant areas with limited numbers of roads, and am especially intrigued by towns at the ends of such roads, picturing romance in remoteness.

Since well before I moved to the Pacific Northwest in 1999, I’ve wanted to visit Tofino on Vancouver Island. Looking at my Rand McNally road atlas, I’d long noticed that it’s the northernmost town on the Pacific Coast of the island that’s reachable by a red line, meaning a principal highway.

In fact, there don’t seem to be any other Pacific coastal towns to the north reachable by paved road; Winter Harbour at the upper end of the island is accessible by unpaved road, and it’s technically on Quatsino Sound, which leads in from the ocean.

Being on the Pacific and bestowed with many fine beaches, Tofino is a town full of “surfer dudes” (the total population is about 2,000), so the lifestyle is rather laid-back. Still, if you don’t surf, there are many other sensual pleasures to enjoy, even (or should I say especially) during inclement weather. So join me as we go to the remote town of Tofino, where we stamp this week’s Passport to Pleasure—a hedonistic quest for great food and good times for two, from nibbles to naughtiness.

Getting There

It’s possible to fly directly into Tofino (from a Canadian city), but to get a full sense of the “end of the road” location, you’ll want to drive from Victoria. The Victoria Clipper is an easy way to make the trip from Seattle to Victoria with an enjoyable three-hour ride, but another option is Kenmore Air. Leaving from Lake Union, you get a spectacular view of Seattle upon takeoff, and then it’s a quick and scenic one-hour flight until your seaplane lands in Victoria’s inner harbor. It’s a fun and romantic way to start your trip, especially if you’ve never taken a plane that’s landed on water.

Boarding the plane

Scenic view of Seattle

From Kenmore Air’s terminal in Victoria, it’s a very easy walk to National Car Rental, where you can pick up a car for the drive to Tofino. There are interesting stops you can make along the way, particularly for food (including True Grain Bread/Hilary’s Cheese at Cowichan Bay, and the Nanaimo Bar trail in Nanaimo), but it’s hard to pass up the previously discussed Fol Epi for the most amazing albacore tuna sandwiches.

If you can handle the temptation, hold off on eating those sandwiches until you reach Qualicum Beach (yes, it’s right near the source of those delicious scallops) where you can enjoy a picnic with a great view of the Strait of Georgia before crossing to the west coast of the island. You might also want to check out Coombs Old Country Market in Parksville if you want snacks or beverages for your ride, an interesting assortment of international foods to bring home, or a view of the goats on the store’s roof (really).

You’re now ready to take Route 4 to cut across the island. In wintery weather, keep a watch of the BCHighway Cams website for road conditions, as there are two tricky passes to traverse. (If you’re feeling the despair of snowy travel, breathe deep and enjoy the stunning “powdered sugar” look of the trees and mountains.) By the first, Port Alberni Summit, it’s worth a stop at Cathedral Grove. You can park for just a few minute to get a feel for the forest of towering Douglas fir trees, or if you have more time, take advantage of the network of hiking trails.

The town of Port Alberni is a possible mid-island stop of civilization that’s actually a port, at the head of Alberni Inlet. From there, the road gets more challenging as you approach Sutton Pass. At the start of the descent, you’ll feel like you’re in a car commercial, demonstrating aerodynamic properties as you navigate the road while it winds, with steep grades, as if plotted by a child or drunkard before finally reaching the coast. (There’s an information center just before the intersection.) Left takes you to Ucluelet, but you’re turning right (and staying on Route 4) for the remainder of the drive north to Tofino.

What to Do: Clayoquot Oyster Festival

Time it right, and the oyster lover in you can enjoy the annual Clayoquot Oyster Festival. Why a festival? Clayoquot Sound is a coveted cultivar of the bivalve, annually growing over 50,000 gallons of oysters. (Festival-goers consume over 8,000!) While the festival offers numerous activities, you’ll certainly want to check out the colorful Mermaid’s Ball. This is one of many times during the year when the townspeople of Tofino let their hair down, dressing in costumes and dancing the night away. Refreshments include an abundance of oysters served raw or barbequed in the “oyster pit,” and there are competitions for the likes of best costume and best oyster slurper.

Tofino locals shucking and showing off the fashion

Jellyfish lamps

In Tofino, love for oysters starts early

The culmination of the festival is the Oyster Gala, in which many of the locals shed their crazy costumes in favor of something more elegant. Here you’ll enjoy beer and wine tasting, along with more raw and barbequed oysters. But the highlight is that selected local restaurants serve samplings of the honored oysters prepared in diverse ways.

What Else to Do

You can find indoor activities if you like, from touring the Tofino Brewing Company to taking in regional art at the Eagle Aerie Gallery. But in Tofino, you want to take advantage of the terrific outdoors.

If you’re here for the Oyster Festival, Remote Passages puts on an educational oyster farm tour that will make you further appreciate what you’re eating. You’ll see the pristine waters of Lemmens Inlet, where lines of oysters (an eco-system unto themselves) are kept until it’s time to harvest. You’ll even get to sample the freshest oyster you can possibly imagine.

The oyster farm tour is a special event help just one day per year, but Remote Passages offers numerous other trips as they try to preserve the ecological value and timeless wonder of the sound. You can do a whale watch trip to spot gray whales (and more), a full-day hot springs trip (which includes a soak, a walk in an ancient rainforest, and wildlife spotting), and bear watch trip. Remote Passages also assists with sea kayaking trips.

Remote Passages takes you to the oyster farm

Clean water and a beautiful day

Oysters have their own eco-system

As fresh as can be

As you might expect, there are fantastic hiking trails both in and out of Pacific Rim National Park. The Schooner Trail, one kilometer in each direction, is at the north end of Long Beach, and is especially good at low tide. (Knowledge of tides is important in Tofino!) Or try Combers Beach Trail, which winds through Sitka spruce forest and reaches a beach where you can see trees stunted by winds and the ocean’s salt. Choose just about any beach in the area and you’ll cherish views that are well worth the effort of traveling to Tofino.

The fauna of Tofino

South of Tofino, in Ucluelet, you can take a walk on the wild side on the Wild Pacific Trail. The windy trails reveal spectacular scenery as you go through coastal temperate rainforest with take in views of Barkley Sound to the east and the Pacific Ocean to the west (and south). There’s a 2.6 kilometer loop that is easy and picturesque.

View from the Wild Pacific Trail

Animal or vegetable?

Maybe the main reason to visit late fall or winter is storm watching. It sounds strange to travel so far for a weather experience you might dislike at home, but the powerful beauty of the sights and sounds of the wind and waves is captivating—whichever side of the window you’re on.

Beach view

Moments later

Looking down

A few minutes later

One minute later

Where to Stay I: Long Beach Lodge

If you go bananas for beachfront views, Long Beach Lodge Resort is hard to beat. The lodge has 41 luxury rooms, most with ocean views. The staff is warm and friendly, and amenities include waterproof rain jackets to help insure you’ll talk advantage of beach walks right in your backyard. You’ll be tempted to explore the beach before or after breakfast, during the day, and especially in the evening to watch as the sun sets. If you’re cold or tired, take in the view from your soaker tub.

Wake to a buffet breakfast (included in your rate, with other meals available at additional charge) in the scenic Great Room, where you can linger over coffee while watching the beach come to life.

Long Beach Lodge suite

The view from the room

Looking back at the Lodge

The breakfast buffet will help you wake up

The Great Room at the Lodge, where you can enjoy your meals

The beach in the morning

Sunset on the sand

A last look at the waves rolling in

A couple enjoys an evening kiss

Where to Stay II: The Wickaninnish Inn

Just north of Long Beach is Chesterman Beach, which provides a dramatic setting for the spectacular Wickanninish Inn. Each of the 75 guest rooms and suites boasts a fireplace, soaker tub, and balcony that offers ocean or beach views. The Wick, as it’s affectionately called, is a Relais & Châteaux property, coveting the “5 C’s”: charm, courtesy, character, cuisine, and calm.

This is an elegant and yet unstuffy property, with lots to explore. The Lookout Library has historic artifacts, a DVD library, and dramatic Chesterman Beach views. The Driftwood Lounge is a relaxing place for breakfast or a snack throughout the day. A fitness center will help you burn calories, though there are walks right outside, including a rainforest beach loop trail.

The Wick is home to the luxurious Ancient Cedars Spa. This is a full-service spa that offers extensive body and aesthetic treatments. You can indulge in a couples massage or more extensive package, perhaps in the “Rainforest Haven” or “Cedar Sanctuary.” There’s a relaxing eucalyptus steam room, and you’ll always remember sitting outside, even in the cold, wrapped in blankets with tea while enjoying a foot soak and forest/water view before your main treatment.

When you return to your room after dinner, you’ll appreciate the turndown service and the sultry sounds of Diana Krall on your Bose system. Do you throw on provided raingear and take a romantic walk on the beach to experience the pounding surf? Head to the double-soaker tub? Snuggle in front of the fireplace and picture window? You can do all three, perhaps in that order.

A spectacular setting for a hotel

A luxurious room at the Wickaninnish Inn

The view from the room

A chance to lounge…in the Lounge

The view from the spa

Surfers enjoying the water

Romantic, stunning strolls on Chesterman Beach, even during storms

Where to Eat: The Pointe Restaurant

The Pointe Restaurant at the Wickaninnish Inn was built meticulously so that, anchored on the rocks overlooking Chesterman Beach, diners can appreciate a 240-degree view of the pounding Pacific surf. There’s even a speaker system (with microphones outside) that enables diners to feel like they’re outside, in the midst of a major storm.

Some settings are forever memorable. This is one of them.

The food is fabulous, too. The cuisine is built upon coastal seafood, the island’s farm-fresh ingredients, and a discriminating selection of Pacific Northwest Wines.

Scallop amuse bouche

Medicine Farms organic winter greens with endive, frozen Okanagan grapes, almond & ginger granola, and vanilla & lemon yogurt

Qualicum scallop sashimi with Meyer lemon, grapefruit, and pomegranate

Cumin chicken broth with braised chicken, beans, coriander, and lime

Long Pepper duck breast with buckwheat spätzle, smoked plum, anise, radicchio, and orange

Smoked albacore tuna with squash boulanger, pancetta, endive, and brown butter jus

Sauvignon blanc-poached Bartlett pears with spiced brioche, Wisers Whiskey candies, hops ice cream, chocolate paint, and micro-greens (Note: Pastry Chef Matt Wilson offers both conventional and unconventional dessert menus. I wish my appetite would have allowed me to explore more of the unconventional dessert menu, which includes savory elements and other twists. In the future, hopefully…)

Where to Eat: Spotted Bear Bistro

At Spotted Bear Bistro, Vince Fraissange is at the helm behind the hand-milled, salvaged cedar bar that fronts the open kitchen. Fraissange, who worked previously at La Crocodile and Lumiere, and sailed the world as a private chef on yachts, is now grounded in Tofino taking advantage of seasonal and local ingredients. You’ll see this play out in his tasty take on pho, which includes pork and prawn patties, as well as smoked albacore tuna. Albacore plays the starring role in a perfect balanced tartare spiked with soy truffle vinaigrette. This intimate, friendly bistro features a simple menu; look for one soup, one salad, a pizza and pasta, and some protein offerings, like pan-seared Fraser Valley duck breast in various preparations. Best bet is to turn control over to the kitchen in going with a four-course tasting menu for $60.

Tartare: Albacore tuna, cucumber, soy truffle vinaigrette, warm toasts

Pho: Vietnamese style noodle soup, smoked Albacore tuna, pork & prawn patties,
fresh herbs, sprouts, lime

Duck: crispy pan-seared Fraser valley breast, potatoes, leeks, confit short rib ragout, and port wine gastrique

Dessert: Chocolate pot du creme

Chef Vince Fraissange in the kitchen

Where to Eat: Other

There are many places to try fish and chips in Tofino. Some say Shelter does it best.

Fish and chips: beer-battered lingcod, Shelter house-cut fries, basil-mint coleslaw, tartar sauce, and malt vinegar

Pacific lingcod burger: lingcod fillet, basil-mint coleslaw, lettuce, tomato, mayo, and onion ring

SoBo stands for Sophisticated Bohemian. This food truck turned restaurant uses fresh, local ingredients to serve diverse dishes in a cheery environment.

Inside SoBo

Smoked wild fish chowder: wild salmon in a creamy dill broth

Speaking of food trucks, Tacofino is so popular that its operators applied for (and received) one of the coveted positions of new food trucks in Vancouver. The Tofino location still draws long lines for its delicious soup, tacos, burritos, and, of course, the sinfully delicious chocolate Diablo cookies, spiked with cayenne pepper.

Lining up for food

Even when it’s cold, Tacofino will warm you up

Up close with a burrito and taco

Note:

• Clayoquot Sound photo (second from top), Alberni Highway photo, and Clayoquot intertidal fauna photo courtesy of Tourism Vancouver Island – ChrisCheadle.com.
• Long Beach Lodge Resort photos (suite, “Looking back at the lodge,” breakfast buffet, and Great Room) courtesy of Long Beach Lodge Resort, Tofino.
• Wickaninnish Inn photos (“spectacular setting,” “luxurious room,” spa, Chesterman Beach” courtesy of The Wickaninnish Inn, as are the “Lounge” photo (taken by Chris Pouget) and the “surfers” photo (taken by Wayne Barnes).

Dish: “Noodles Combo”
Place: King Noodle, International District
Price: $6.99

In the bowl: Your choice of soup base, noodles, and toppings (including vegetables)

Supporting cast/What to do: Your server will give you a form (in Chinese and English) and a pen. If you’re having a noodle bowl, you’ll need to build it yourself from the ingredient list, filling out the form and turning it in to your server. You can also order appetizers and other items on this form.

Noodling around: There’s work to do if you come for a noodle bowl. You can spend an agonizing amount of time deliberating your decision. A friend suggested that they do recommendations, like “house specials.” But remember that at King Noodle, you’re in control, which is part of the fun.

First, there’s an interesting assortment of six soup bases: chicken broth, original fish soup, hot spicy, Szechuan spicy, sour & hot, and Thai tom yum goong. Next six noodle choices: (rice) vermicelli, flat rice noodles, QQ noodles, udon, instant noodles (!), and wonton noodles. Then a choice of two out of four vegetable “garnish” toppings: bean sprouts, cabbage, leeks (Chinese chives), and mushrooms. Finally, there are 16 regular toppings. Most are proteins, from BBQ duck to cuttlefish balls, but there are also vegetarian options like seaweed and pumpkin. “Fungus trip” and “Luncheon” remain mysteries for now.

I wanted something spicy, and knew that Szechuan spicy would mean the ma la numbing effect that I love, so I chose that broth. (The hot spicy was similar, without Szechuan peppercorn; both could have been spicier for my taste, but they’ll certainly be spicy enough for most people.) Curious about QQ noodles, my server said they’re Taiwanese and made with wheat and eggs, but white in color. Bigger than wonton noodles (similar in size to fettucine), I was happy with that choice. My “garnishes” were leek and mushroom (unfortunately, they were button mushrooms instead of shiitake, which would be much better), and as I can’t resist offal, I had numerous choices and went with beef tripe and pork kidney. The tripe portion was skimpy, but the pork kidney was fine.

Overall, it was a satisfying bowl of soup, and staring at the menu, I kept considering what the other combinations would be like.

If you want more: The appetizer list is full of fun options for offal lovers, from Szechuan-style pork stomach to marinated pork intestines. If you get offal in your noodle bowl, I’d recommend the pork and vegetable dumplings, pan-fried instead of steamed ($3.60 for 6, or $7.50 for 12, which will certainly make you wonder why there’s an upcharge for more!). These plump dumplings are house-made, and served with soy sauce. (Note that if you’re especially hungry, you can also add more toppings to your noodle bowl at $1.50 per item.)

Be aware/beware: While I was disappointed with the button mushrooms as one of my garnish toppings, if you choose mushrooms as a regular topping, you’ll get a generous portion of enoki mushrooms. The flat rice noodles are cut shorter than usual, so they “break” easily and were harder to eat with chopsticks than the longer cuts. The chicken broth was pretty good, and seeing free-range chicken as a topping on the menu was refreshing. Lastly, the rice stone pots looked tempting, and also offer item choices.

First published in Seattle Weekly’s Voracious on January 16, 2012.

Last week, Sexy Feast took me to Queen Margherita in Magnolia for thin-crust, Neopolitan-style pizza. This week, in celebration of National Pizza Week, I wanted more pizza, but something a little different.

Luckily, last month I purchased a Seattle Weekly VOICE Daily Deal for Kylie’s Chicago Pizza. For $12, I had $24 to spend, which would cover any of the nine Chicago-style, deep dish pizzas. I went with the “Combo.” The cornmeal crust stands tall, holding a layer of cheese and lots of chunky tomato sauce. The Combo is stuffed with fillings: pepperoni, sweet fennel sausage, onions, green bell peppers, mushrooms, and black olives. It’s a beauty to behold, and will certainly make you wonder, “How am I going to take this whole thing in?”

So what does Kylie’s Chicago-style pizza teach us about sex?

It’s all about deciding whether to go deep.

As I’m from Long Island, my preferred pizza is New York-style. You grab a slice, fold it so the edges almost meet, let the grease drip down to the paper plate, and then eat out of hand. That said, deep dish pizza is fun for a change, as it’s impressive in its heft, with the meaty version like a “masculine quiche.” But not everyone is as accepting of both styles as me, even with my bias. In the eating out battle of Chicago versus New York, some people like going deep, while others gag on the thought.

It’s the same with oral pleasuring, including fellatio.

Many people enjoy deep kissing. A probing tongue plays inside each partner’s mouth, and the swirling of tongues excites the many nerve endings they contain. Others, though, are uncomfortable with this and keep the kissing to the lips, as if seeing another’s tongue as a snake, and saliva as venom.

And then there’s deep throating, a form of fellatio in which the penis is taken deep into the partner’s mouth, reaching the throat. This can cause a gag reflex, which might ultimately be unpleasant for both parties. The “insertee” may enjoy deep throating, though it’s possibly from the satisfaction of providing (perceived) pleasure to his or her partner. Note that the act doesn’t have to be uncomfortable for the insertee. Training helps. Certain positions tend to be more comfortable in relaxing the throat, such as lying on the back with the head just off the bed and tipped downward, which levels the mouth and throat closer to a straight line.

For the “insertor,” the thrill may also be more psychological than physical. This comes from a sense that the partner is really into him and his penis by demonstrating a desire to completely “devour” the penis. In actuality, though, most of the stimulation comes from the lips and the tongue, so deep throating can be under-stimulating and overrated.

As with choosing pizza, the decision to go deep is a personal one. You’ll want to discuss it with your companion, but in the end, you must feel comfortable with your choice. Fortunately, through thick and thin, there are many paths to pleasure.

First published in Seattle Weekly’s Voracious on January 12, 2012.

And here’s more, excerpted from my piece at TheSunbreak.com as my second of a month-long Pizza Parlor Friday Holler:

Back when airplane travel was much easier, I’d dash out of O’Hare Airport during long layovers to pick up a deep-dish pizza. If I planned my time wisely, I could count on the “L” to take me to places like Giordano’s or Gino’s East, returning in time to stuff myself with stuffed pizza on the plane, making my seatmates jealous.

Kylie’s is much closer than Chicago, though you’ll need to consider your time here as well. The menu advises a 25-minute wait for a deep-dish pizza. Some people call in their order ahead of time, though if you’re eating in, you’ll also need to consider table availability, as Kylie’s is a small space that can get crowded. (It will seem even smaller if you’re stuck listening to two tables with babies screaming in stereo. Parents, have you considered take-out?)

To fill the wait time and to fulfill a hungry stomach, I started with chicken wings. The menu promised over a pound of wings (they were mostly drummies) with baby carrots (easier to prep than celery, I suppose) and a choice of ranch or blue cheese dressing, all for $9. With nine wings on the plate, they came to one dollar apiece, and they disappointed as “Buffalo” style, lacking the crispy “seal” of a deep-fried wing (these were slightly soggy) as well as the spicy punch.

Fortunately, Kylie’s did Chicago better than it did Buffalo. (There are also thin-crust pizzas available, but if at Chicago-style joint, what’s the point?) In a meaty mood, thoughts of sausage and pepperoni prevailed as I went with the “Combo.” The 10-inch pie ($18; there’s also a 12-inch version for $24) sets you up with six pork-filled slices that also include green peppers, onions, mushrooms, and black olives.

It’s a colossal affair, and in contrast to the New York-style slice that you pick up, fold (letting the extra grease run down to the paper plate), and eat out of hand, Chicago-style means utensils. The tall slice stands strong due to the thick crust, which requires a little light sawing with a knife. That crust, made with cornmeal, is a bit buttery and slightly tangy. With all of the fillings (including the chunky tomato sauce), I felt like I was eating more of a quiche than a pizza.

The sausage pieces were larger than I like, with those at the top of the pie a little overcooked and dried out. Next time, I’ll probably revert back to my preferred, basic cheese pie. But overall, the pizza was pretty good, with two slices sufficient for dinner—leaving the third slice (it reheats well, pleasing to this person who prefers not to eat cold pizza) as a bonus for breakfast the next day.

About a year ago, I reported about a culinary awakening in Victoria, Cowichan Valley, and Sooke. That was based on a summertime trip to Vancouver Island.

Planning a return to Victoria, I wondered: Would I find bliss in more wintery weather?

Snow, ice, rain, and cold weather couldn’t keep me from again enjoying my journey. With thanks to Kenmore Air and Victoria Clipper for fighting adverse weather, my partner and I had another great getaway with wonderful walks, spectacular food, and moments of relaxation. The secret of success seemed to always boil down to six letters. I’ll explain more as we go back to Victoria, where we stamp this week’s Passport to Pleasure—a hedonistic quest for great food and good times for two, from nibbles to naughtiness.

Six Letters: Spa Day

Our base was the Magnolia Hotel & Spa, a 64-room hotel conveniently located in walking distance of both Kenmore and the Clipper, as well as many of the major sites. This makes it easy to stop by your room to dry off or warm up in the midst of your outdoor activities, whether a horse-drawn carriage ride or a walk through Abkhazi Garden, “a garden that love built.”

The Magnolia is a good place for indoor relaxation, especially if you arrange one of their Date Night packages. If you “Declare a Spa Date,” your one-night stay will include a 30-minute Spa Magnolia couples massage, chocolate fondue for two in the spa lounge or your room, and deluxe continental breakfast when you wake up in the morning.

You can customize your spa experience and make it a longer stay if you’d like, as there’s a wide range of services available. You might want to take the opportunity to try a hot stone massage. You and your partner will relax side-by-side as your practitioners use heated basalt stones (incredibly smooth) from Vancouver Island’s shores to relax your minds and bodies. This treatment is especially beneficial for increased circulation, lymphatic drainage, and relief of tension.

Spa waiting room (Photo courtesy of Magnolia Hotel & Spa, Victoria, BC)

Hot stones for treatment

Guest room with a view (Photo courtesy of Magnolia Hotel & Spa, Victoria, BC)

Magnolia Hotel & Spa by night (Photo courtesy of Magnolia Hotel & Spa, Victoria, BC)

Six Letters: Lunch(e)s

Well, it’s not the word “lunch” that’s six letters, but the coincidence that so many of Victoria’s best lunch places contain exactly six letters. For example, last time around, I raved about Devour, which continues to be an excellent dining destination.

Fol Epi remains a remarkable favorite. The croissants are good (though they fall short of what you’ll find in Paris). Stunning are the albacore tuna sandwiches. (It’s on the right, with a wild sockeye and tomato sandwich on the left.) You’ll never want another tuna sandwich again, as the bread is delicious and the tuna chunks are spiked with a little wasabi:

PiCNiC is a fun little soup, sandwich, and salad stop close to the hotel. Fill out a tiny little form to order a freshly made sandwich, or pick from the day’s specials, which will also include a couple of soups and a salad or two. You’re free to sample the soups and to do combinations with half or whole portions. The food is delicious.

Many people stop in for a coffee (and, if early, a breakfast bite), but be sure to check out the other drinks. The house-made ginger ale is delightful, and the lavender lemonade has a huge following. And, yes, there are picnic tables (orange) outside.

Curried chicken with avocado on a baguette, along with chorizo, kale, and potato soup

A perky salad that included red lentils and pomegranate seeds, along with a “chef’s choice” sandwich of Calabrese salami, oven-roasted turkey breast, mozzarella, tomato, avocado, mixed greens, roasted zucchini, goat cheese, and veggie spread

Eclectic is the best word to describe the menu at Relish Food and Coffee. Chef Jamie Cummins, formerly at Sooke Harbor House, is playful in the kitchen, making most everything in-house, from breads to bacon and granola to gnocchi. You’ll relish espresso and baked goods in the morning in the bright, open space with bold art on the walls.

Relish’s lunch offers soup, salads, and sandwiches, but you might also find ramen (house-made noodles, of course), banh mi, and tagliatelle on the colorful menu board which changes daily and is subject to squiggles as items inevitably sell out. Diverse ingredients like sauerkraut, kabocha squash, and ancho chiles are likely to appear on your dishes. Be sure to check the side dishes, visible through the showcase. (Visit Relish’s Facebook page for a current photo of the colorful chalkboard displaying the daily menu.)

A bowl of albacore tuna balls with bok choy, fingerling potatoes, and a poached egg in kimchi broth

Banh mi with pork belly, house pork terrine, pickles, cilantro, and kimchi cucumber

This beet (including the greens) and poached pear salad is terrific

The day’s menu

Six Letters: Sip (of) Tea

There’s something romantic about strolling through Victoria’s Chinatown, the oldest in Canada. Take photos of your partner in Fan Tan Alley, which will offer some interesting backdrops. As in any Chinatown, the little markets are fun, as you and your companion can discover foods that may be completely new to you. There are some more modern stores to explore; the food lover in you will enjoy Nood, which describes its kitchenware, furniture, and more as “new objects of desire.”

While in Chinatown, enjoy some alternatives to Afternoon Tea. Silk Road (like The Fairmont Empress, discussed in the last Victoria report) is in the area, but for something different, how about two contrasting experiences right across from each other? At Venus Sophia, you can sit in the quaint tea room and have some vegetarian snacks:

Or, across the street, visit Fan Tan Café for bubble tea and some far-from-vegetarian bites:

Six Letters: Skinny(Tato)

Okay, so “Skinny” is just the first part of the restaurant name. The full name is Skinnytato Polish Restaurant, and Katherina Koper and her crew cook the meat and potatoes of her homeland, including latkes (potato pancakes), which one of her children called a “skinny tato.” The small ones are tasty:

The name sounds funny, but this is a special restaurant that’s a relatively hidden gem in Victoria. While host/owners Greg and Katherina Koper will make you feel like you’re in their home, the setting of this small restaurant with its red walls is actually romantic in its old world charm, especially after dark:

The food is fun for a change of pace, and you can get Polish beer to pair with it. Here is an extra-large potato pancake stuffed with goulash (there are other choices), which comes with four small salads, one of which is now called “skinnytato” (made with shredded cabbage, carrots, apples, and onion):

Another option is a combination plate with a variety of pierogies, cabbage rolls, and a Polish sausage:

Six Letters: Oak Bay

Oak Bay is one of the most interesting (and oldest) neighborhoods of Victoria. If you’re feeling ambitious, you can walk from the hotel, but it’s easily accessible by bus if you don’t have a car. Once there, you’ll want to take a walk to the marina, where you’ll enjoy scenic views of the Pacific Ocean, the Strait of Juan de Fuca, and perhaps Mount Baker in the distance.

In Oak Bay Village, you can visit many boutiques, art galleries, and bookstores. To whet your appetite, you might want to stop at Ottavio Italian Bakery & Deli to sample some of the delicacies.

But unless you’re spending a full day in Oak Bay, don’t fill up, because you’re having dinner at one of the best restaurants in Victoria: Vis-à-Vis Wine & Charcuterie Bar. Vis-à-Vis (that’s almost six letters) is a cozy spot that serves spectacular food. Your server will provide thoughtful recommendations of wine to pair with each course. You can even get one-inch pours if you’re pacing yourself to sample as a large number of the many BC wines available.

The menu is divided into sections that include “hot,” “cold,” “fondue,” and “finger food.” Flavor combinations are fascinating (for example, seared scallop with salted licorice glaze) and the wide variety of offerings is tempting. In a word, the food is delicious, and you’ll find this a fascinating and romantic place for your first or final food adventure in Victoria. Some of the dishes:

Organic Cimmaron romaine with lamb bacon, croutons, crème fraiche, and garlic scape dressing

Hot-smoked trout with rosemary crème fraiche, crispy sea lettuce, and trout roe

Tempura lollipop duck wing with persimmon & habanero sauce

Smoked bacon custard brulee with roasted squash, baby kale, orange, crispy ham, and pumpkin seed praline (perhaps the most memorable dish I ate in Victoria!)

Grilled octopus with squid ink fettucine, salsa verde, and chorizo

Smoked sablefish confit with caraway choucroute, 67-degree egg yolk, pomme puree, and lemon confit

A little taste of bison heart from the charcuterie menu, along with an even smaller taste of deliciously stinky Langres cheese from France

Churros with maple bacon sugar and white chocolate apple sauce, perfectly paired with Lustau East Indian Solera sherry

Six-Letter Conclusion about Victoria: Superb!

Dish: Chow Mein (with Hand-Shaved Noodles)
Place: Spicy Talk Bistro, Redmond
Price: $8.25

On the plate: Hand-shaved noodles with your choice of pork, chicken, beef, vegetables, tofu, or prawns. Pictured is pork. It’s just noodles and meat, along with some cabbage and green onions, plus chili pepper to your desired level of spice.

Supporting cast/What to do: This one is pretty straightforward. It’s a WYSIWYG plate. Just dig in. If it’s not spicy enough, you can ask for chili oil to raise the heat level.

Noodling around: There are a lot of variations of chow mein. The main draw of Spicy Talk’s version is that it’s made with hand-shaved noodles. From a big ball of dough (made of wheat flour and water), the chef skillfully flicks a special tool to shave a pile of noodles for stir-frying. The noodles will have similar thickness, but with enough variation and irregularity to know that they are indeed hand-shaven. The joy of these noodles is that their thickness and freshness yield fabulous texture. Stir-fried, they’re almost al dente (atypical for Chinese dishes, as noodles are usually very soft) with a bit of chew to them.

Spicy Talk is a Szechuan restaurant, so spice levels can soar. I asked for these noodles ma la, which means both numbing (from Szechuan peppercorn) and spicy (from chili peppers). Below the spice, I could still taste soy sauce, which is the foundation of the seasoning. This chow mein is a simple dish that’s satisfying.

If you want more: There are many interesting possibilities on the menu, but I recommend chili with beef tripe ($5.25) as a great starter. If you don’t want your noodles spicy, this dish will provide nice contrast in heat. And you’ll have a second plate with plenty of texture to talk about and enjoy.

Be aware/beware: “Spicy Talk” sounds like it would be the subject for Sexy Feast, but it’s just a Chinese restaurant. Unlike Bellevue’s Bamboo Garden (which I believe is slightly better in quality), it’s not next to an adult toy store. Yes, Redmond is far from Seattle, and more costly now that there are tolls on the 520, but Szechuan food in Seattle falls short of Eastside quality. In fact, Spicy Talk’s chef Cheng Biao Yang was formerly at Seven Stars Pepper, but he sold it, and the quality has been in free-fall of late. (Between Seven Stars and Spicy Talk, he was at Szechuan Chef in Bellevue, which remains popular.)

First published in Seattle Weekly’s Voracious on January 9, 2012.

Queen Margherita in Magnolia is the kind of neighborhood place where everybody knows your name.

It’s also a restaurant where workers take pride in their pizza-making. The Caputo flour, silk to the touch, is imported from Italy. Pies are carefully handcrafted, dispatched to the wood-burning oven, and then pulled after quick-cooking.

There are many varieties on the menu. Recently, I sampled the Queen Margherita, simple yet elegant with its buffalo mozzarella, San Marzano tomato sauce, fresh basil, and extra-virgin olive oil. The Puttanesca pleased me with its briny and spicy flavors from capers, olives, and chili flakes. There’s even a dessert Pizza di Nutella with a little salt spiking the chocolate hazelnut spread. Most intriguing, though, was the Dattero, delicious with its dates, gorgonzola, prosciutto crudo, fresh mozzarella, and a drizzle of balsamic reduction.

So what does Queen Margherita’s dattero pizza teach us about sex?

It’s all about finding the delight of dates.

Maybe you’ve had your share of bacon-wrapped dates, but never dates on a pizza. Traditionalists and others may dread the thought, but if you have an open mind, you just might enjoy the dates’ contribution to the overall sweetness, saltiness, and richness of each slice you try.

Sexually speaking, many singles look at dates with dread. Questions like “What will we do?” and “What will we say?” and “How will the date end?” naturally run through the mind when dating. I suggest having an open mind and simply look forward to the potential fun of dating. Three simple steps:

1. Enjoy the time.

On dates, do what you love, and avoid what you don’t love. Of course, be open to new adventures (maybe a chance to check something off your bucket list?), but if you absolutely detest salsa dancing or sailboarding, why do it on a date? Your companion will surely detect your negative energy. But if you both love wine-tasting or walking, go, and you’ll be in your element. Even if you don’t find your love interest, hopefully you’ll still have fun.

2. Enjoy the person.

Don’t be judgmental; don’t judge a book by its cover. Sure, first impressions count, but go deeper by asking good questions and getting to know your date’s personality and passions. You might find friendship…or even more.

3. Enjoy the process.

It’s just a date. Loosen up and laugh. If you’re preoccupied about how the date will end and whether there will be another date, you’re living in the future instead of enjoying the present. Dating’s like sex: Sometimes we’re too goal-oriented. Men, especially, are often easily aroused and socialized to run the bases, seeing how far we can get. Once we get to home plate, we forget the ecstasy of the steps along the way–for example, of being “stranded” at first base with endless sessions of kissing, wondering when we’ll get to second, but enjoying every minute of it.

Keep expectations in check. You never know when they’ll be surpassed!

Queen Margherita exceeded my expectations, and might just be a good place to have a first date. It’s a friendly restaurant, and pizza’s pretty cheap as a first “investment.” Sit at the counter and watch the magic of pizza-making. Banter with the pizza chef (see how your date interacts with others, and not just you), who might even give you a feel of the flour, sensual for playing. See how well you negotiate your pizza order, including preference for toppings (and the connection to sex play). And, hey, it’s Italian food–coupled with a nice red wine, you’ve got the ingredients for a romantic date.

First published in Seattle Weekly’s Voracious on January 5, 2012.

And here’s more, published at TheSunbreak.com as my first of a month-long Pizza Parlor Friday Holler:

National Pizza Month may officially be in October, but with professional football playoffs about to begin, I’m moving it to January. [ETA: Actually, I just learned that the second full week of January is National Pizza Week. How convenient!]

I’ve tackled Queen Anne area burgers before, and now it’s time to search for some pizza within easy reach of the hill. I’ll feature one place each Friday of the month, looking for a little variety.

Eating excursions rarely take me west of Queen Anne, but when I heard good things about Queen Margherita in Magnolia, I had to give it a try. Margherita of Savoy served as Italy’s queen from 1878 to 1900, and legend has it that the Margherita pizza–made with red tomatoes, green basil, and white cheese (in honor of the Italian flag)–was named after her in 1889. Since fall 2010, she’s had this hidden gem named after her as well.

Queen Margherita is the type of neighborhood restaurant where it seems everybody knows your name. Visit more than once, and I’m sure owner Corino Bonjrada will take notice of you. When he’s not working the dining area and helping with service, he’s watching with pride as Devin Dukes prepares pizzas. These Neopolitan-style pies are made with Caputo Tipo 00 flour (silky smooth) from Italy, with the dough aged several days to ferment and develop the gluten. The pies go into a wood-fired oven (made in Naples) that reaches temperatures up to 1200 degrees, spending just 45 to 80 seconds to cook.

The pizzas are delicious. Neapolitan style means they are a slightly soft in the middle, with crisp crusts that have nice air bubbles. There are many pizza options on the menu, from the namesake Queen Margherita (great with Buffalo mozzarella) to the Puttanesca (briny and spicy) to the intriguing Dattero (with dates, gorgonzola, prosciutto crudo, fresh mozzarella, and a drizzle of balsamic reduction). As Bonjrada told me, pizza is “the most amazing and yet simple thing.”

Here’s a photo gallery of shots of the pizza–including a special dessert pizza–along with some side dishes and a glimpse of the pizza-making:

Dish: Kitsune udon
Place: U:Don, University District (”U” is pronounced “You”)
Price: $5.75 for a medium bowl

In the bowl: From the menu: “Udon noodles served hot with our extra thick fried and marinated tofu (Atsu-age), sliced green onions & grated fresh ginger.”

Supporting cast/What to do: Grab a tray and slide along the line, cafeteria-style, which is typical of udon joints in Japan. When you place your order, the bowl-maker will ask if you want tenkasu (tempura flakes, like Rice Krispies) in the bowl, or on the side. After getting your bowl, you’ll slide down to an area where you can pick up pieces of tempura, kakiage (tempura made with vegetable strips, like a fritter), or karaage (fried chicken) before paying. These extras range in cost from 35 cents for tempura broccoli to $1.79 for tempura chikuwa. (You’ll want the chikuwa, which is fishcake in the shape of a tube.) See below for more on what to do to eat this udon.

Noodling around: U:Don, which opened late last month, serves the first house-made udon noodles in Seattle. You can watch the noodle-making process while you wait to order. The udon is ultimately 3mm thick, and it’s boiled briefly to achieve a koshi quality (firm, al dente texture). The cold preparations, such as on-tama udon (in soy sauce-dashi sauce, served with a “hot-spring” egg, sliced green onions, and grated ginger) show off the chewiness of the udon best.

Especially comforting in winter, the warm broths soften the noodles. Kitsune udon features deep-fried tofu pouches (kitsune means fox, and it’s said that foxes like fried tofu) which absorb the broth, making for bites that are slightly sweet. The broth, too, is bit sweet–the one minor complaint I’m consistently hearing from Japanese friends who have visited U:Don since its opening. (I especially noticed this in the niku udon, perhaps due to the meat marinade.) But it’s early in the game for U:Don, and chef Tak Kurachi seems open to feedback from his customers.

Otherwise, everyone’s thrilled to have this low-cost noodle restaurant in town, with special praise for the tempura and kakiage. There’s a nice selection available. Some like to drop these items in the soup to get the breading a bit soggy. I prefer to keep mine crisp, or to just swipe them through the broth as I eat them. This is also why I get my tenkasu on side, as I can add the flakes to the soup as I please, keeping them crisp. You’ll have to sample various types of tempura to see what you like best, but I especially recommend the chikuwa, which is a perfect blend of chewy and crispy.

If you want more: Karaage (49 cents per piece) is an interesting side option for the udon. It’s not traditional, and I wouldn’t put it in the bowl of udon, but it’s fun to have as part of the meal. There’s also onigiri (more typical of what you might find as a side in Japan) if you’re carbo-loading. Personally, I’d just go for a bigger portion of tempura. You can also pay 50 cents more for a larger bowl of noodles (or 50 cents less for a smaller bowl).

Be aware/beware: If you’ve never had fresh-made udon before, it’s a great experience, as the texture of the noodles is quite special. Just as you can appreciate the jump from Top Ramen to real ramen, try U:Don’s noodles and you might not want to go back to dried or frozen udon–except for the convenience.

Like ramen, note that it’s best to eat udon within ten minutes to keep the noodles from getting too soft. That might be tricky for the chopstick-challenged, as these thick noodles are quite slippery, but as I’ve written before, just keep in mind that they are “supremely slurpable,” meaning it’s okay to make noise while sucking them in.

Note: U:Don is included in my round-up of Seattle-area Asian noodle restaurants as part of my cover story in the current IBUKI magazine (available at Japan-centric stores and restaurants).

First published in Seattle Weekly’s Voracious on January 2, 2012.

*** Here are two other noodle bowls I’ve tried at U:Don:

On-tama udon with onsen tamago (hot-spring egg), sliced green onions, grated ginger, and dashi-shoyu

Niku udon with sukiyaki braised beef, onions, sliced green onions, and grated ginger

One of Seattle’s hottest new restaurants is hiding…in a gelato shop. And even if you know where Il Corvo is (inside Procopio, steps down from Western Avenue behind Pike Place Market, below Kasala furniture store), you’ll have to find a way to get there during the week, preferably close to 11am and certainly before the day’s pasta sells out–which can be as early as 1pm.

Hopefully the crowds continue to come, as Hanna Raskin this week reminded us that good restaurants like Il Corvo can close if no one supports them. I went last week, Il Corvo’s last open date for 2011, and my partner and I enjoyed three types of pasta: sagnarelli alla Bolognese (our favorite), linguini alla carbonara (pictured, and note that Naomi Bishop included the recipe along with an interview in her two-part Grillaxin feature on chef Mike Easton and his restaurant), and gnocchi with brown butter, pine nuts, golden raisins, and rosemary.

So what does Il Corvo’s pasta teach us about sex?

It’s all about finding the proper fit for pleasure.

Go to Il Corvo and you’ll see three pasta choices on the menu. (You can also check the blog each morning for the list.) They change daily. And you may not recognize the names. For example, I didn’t know that sagnarelli is a short, flat, ribbon-like noodle about two inches in length that’s generally fluted on all sides.

It’s amazing how many varieties exist, a reminder that pasta is more than just spaghetti (or SpaghettiOs.)

Pasta can be short or long. Slender or wide. Thin or thick. Plain, or colored and flavored. And it’s not just the size that changes, but the shape as well. How fun to have a variety of textures and tastes.

It’s the same with condoms.

Shopping for condoms, like pasta, is shopping for the best fit, for in addition to protection, you want pleasure. You have to give them a try to see what type you like best. For example, some want something subtle, while others want to glow in the dark. Some seek a snug fit, while others don’t want to be so constrained. (This reminds me of the old joke that you could never sell condoms sized small, medium, and large, as no one would want the small. Instead, it’s better to market them as large, extra-large, and jumbo.)

To take the pasta analogy further, think of all of Il Corvo’s delicious and creative sauces as the lubricants. Oh, boy. The possibilities are endless.

And while many of the pastas are smooth, Easton occasionally offers one that isn’t. I’m watching for a rigate, like penne or rigatoni, as that will be ribbed–for her pleasure, of course.

First published in Seattle Weekly’s Voracious on December 29, 2011.

Actually, let’s first take care of the one November restaurant: Olde World Apizza in North Haven, Connecticut. It’s admittedly sad that my trip didn’t allow even a few more minutes to go a few more miles down the road to New Haven. Being so close to a pizza mecca, I had to settle for a secondary choice. Here I ordered a pie that was half plain, and half mozzarella. Not bad, but it made me pine for a trip to Pepe’s. I should be in New Haven this coming spring, so maybe I’ll have the chance to improve upon this:

Now, back to October, when my first trip took me through Oakland, and afforded me the opportunity to try Hawker Fare. It was fantastic. It’s reasonably priced with quick service, and the food is bold and bright. I started with this green papaya salad:

And then took my server’s suggestion in ordering the “24hr Pork Belly ‘tom khem’ style with five spice, sweet soy and preserved vegetable mustard.” I like that the restaurant includes authentic ingredients like dried shrimp and preserved vegetables, and this pork belly with rich, filling, and completely fulfilling:

Bright and early the next morning I headed to Atlanta. This would be a very quick stay, but I managed one meal at Holeman and Finch Public House. This is a very popular place, and even at 11pm I had to wait nearly an hour for a table. Bar noise spills over to the small dining area, but when my food arrived, I was at peace, as the menu offers many intriguing possibilities that appeal to an offal lover like me. First, though, some succotash with sweet peppers and vidalia onions–a rich vegetable start to the meal:

Next up: pan fried-rabbit livers with pole beans and pickled peaches, an interesting and fun combination of ingredients:

The “Parts” part of the menu had bone marrow, veal sweetbreads, and more (plus, I was told that the house hot dog is something special), but I chose the veal brains with black butter as a very hearty way to end this delicious dinner:

The day after returning to Seattle, it was off to the Yakima Valley, with that experience documented here. From there, I had a quick trip to eastern Oregon, which included a nice stop at the Great Pacific Wine and Coffee Co. in Pendleton. This seems to be a perfect place to enjoy a meal and some live music on selected nights. My stay, though, would be brief (and without live music, though I was pleased to hear Peter Himmelman on the speakers) but enjoyable as I noshed on this “beast” sandwich (roast beef with pepperjack, garlic, sweet onions, and stoneground mustard on sourdough) and a Caesar salad:

It was back to the east coast the following week, with a meal at Zafra in Hoboken, New Jersey. This cute little Cuban Latino restaurant gets good reviews. What I ordered turned out to be more potato-heavy than I intended, with those dishes a little sweeter than expected, such as the classic patatas bravas (in spicy tomato and smoked paprika sauce):

For the main course, I got steered toward the enchiladas de pollo (chicken-filled enchiladas with a green tomatillo- hoja santa sauce, served with refried beans and Mexican crema). Like the other dishes I tried, it was good, though not amazing:

Most disappointing about the experience was being told I could try one of their acclaimed spiced hot drinking chocolates (apparently very rich) at their little shop just around the corner. But while that shop had chocolate bars for sale, they said that the restaurant was the place for drinking chocolate. Frustrated, I gave up.

I’d find better Latino food the next day at Valencia Luncheria in Norwalk, Connecticut. This is a sweet little spot doing a bustling business–testimony to its quality. Overwhelmed by arepa and empanada choices (including some sweet choices, like chocolate & plantain), I ultimately ordered a lunch platter with a pernil (Venezuelan pork roast) arepa, chicken liver empanada, ceviche, rice and beans, and avocado:

Valencia was a fun stop on the way to Rhode Island, where I had some late night work. Hours later, looking for a snack to hold me over, I read good reviews about a place called Pick Pockets in Smithfield. Good food in a gas station? Why not! Here’s the interior:

The friendly workers described my many choices, and I happily settled upon a “pocket” with lamb and falafel, loaded with toppings and spiked with spicy hot sauce:

The next day took me on a long road trip to Binghamton, New York, where I was faced again with lack of time for a proper meal. Due to the September flooding that devastated the city, hotel choices were limited, and I found myself doing an unusual stay at Traditions at the Glen, situated on a golf course. I took my meal in the tavern, and had one of the most nondescript burgers and fries:

After brief time back in Seattle, I headed back to Atlanta, this time with time to have perhaps my best road trip meal of the second half of the year. Online, I scouted out a place called One Eared Stag, a fairly new restaurant in a funky part of the city. First of all, the space is gorgeous. You walk into a fun little bar area, and then turn into a very open dining room with a communal/large group table in the center. The bookcase sports the best collection of cookbooks. And the food…

I started with confit chicken wings cooked in duck fat, served with aged (year-old), cured hot sauce and buttermilk dressing:

Next, a beautiful plating of candela fuoco radishes with whipped lardo and radish top gremolata. This seems almost silly to order, but the radishes were bursting with flavor, with that lardo adding intense richness:

As for an entree, I was torn. As at Holeman and Finch, there was a housemade hot dog that looked promising. A BLT with pork fat mayo and a fried egg called to me, as did a lighter option of a Virginia lump crab roll. I watched a country fried pork chop with squash succotash and tomato jam come out of the kitchen, and was almost sold. But I went with what was at the top of the list: “pork & beans” made with belly, chorizo, and Italian white beans, topped with a housemade chicharron:

Stunningly delicious. Someone said something about dessert, but I was simply too stuffed, and satisfied, to go further.

I was hungry late that night, so I stopped at Penang for a comforting bowl of Asian noodles. It was minutes before closing time, but they were happy to send out Penang kari mee (noodles in spicy lemongrass-coconut curry with shredded chicken, shrimp, and “oiler” tofu) that hit the spot:

I had a weekend at home and then another quick trip east to finish the month. Cleveland meant hope for a chance to check out a Michael Symon restaurant, but with very limited time (an all-too-familiar theme), the best I could manage was his B Spot Burgers chain. These are upscale burgers in a casual setting, so I settled in with a “Yo!” burger with fried salami, coppa, hot peppers, provolone, and shasha hot sauce (and a side of Lola fries with sea salt and rosemary):

The burger was decent, though the fries were forgettable. I was tempted to try a vanilla bean apple pie bacon shake, but that seemed over-the-top. I did avail myself of the pickle bar with lots of interesting offerings, and finished up my meal and another year on the road:

This was not a particularly good month of eating, mostly because I was in nowheresville most of the time. Let’s jump in, starting in Albany, where I pulled off the highway shortly after leaving the airport for dinner at Ala Shanghai in Latham. This place has a slightly more upscale feeling than most Chinese restaurants. With low hopes, I ordered xiao long bao, and they were just so-so (really thick wrappers, little soup, ma-ma taste):

And then I ate tong-po pork, which turned out to be more pork belly than I imagined:

This dish was well-cooked, but simply too heavy for one person (me, who still managed to eat most of it).

I was in Saratoga Springs the next morning, which meant a visit to Mrs. London’s. I’ve raved about this place in the past, and this time I enjoyed a croissant sandwich:

The night meant a business dinner. I was taken to Blu Stone Bistro, in a little hotel near the airport. Blu Stone is going for the swanky feeling, but as I was there quite early, I never got a feel for its clientele. The food was okay…nothing offensive, but nothing to write home about, starting with this beet salad:

I also had a small portion of the scallops with confetti rice:

On to Ithaca, my home for six years. I met a friend at the Ithaca restaurant rated highest by Urbanspoon in the moderately priced category: Just a Taste. It’s a place for tapas and wine, but after just a taste of a few dishes, I felt dissatisfied. Flavors were flat, with the food uninspired and uninspiring. We started with summer squash sauteed in brown butter with garlic, pecans, and romano cheese:

Moved on to wild mushroom ragout with grilled sourdough bread and herbed goat cheese:

And then ordered housemade Italian cheese sausage with Calabrese olive orzo salad:

Before calling it quits. Maybe it was an off-night. I was sad to leave, as it looked like it had a lot of potential as a pleasant place to drink and nosh.

The next day would be better, as I hit an old favorite, the Glenwood Pines, on the way out of town. I’m sure it had been at least ten years since my last visit (could it be more like twenty?), but the place hasn’t changed a bit. Perched high above the lake, I resisted the temptation of a bloody mary (they’re great there) and ordered a Pinesburger (a six-ounce cheeseburger on French bread with lettuce, tomato, onion, and thousand island dressing). Still a mess to eat, and still delicious:

(And, yes, I was again watching tennis on the television!)

I then drove to Geneseo, where I decided to follow up my lunchtime cheeseburger with some dinnertime pizza. Mama Mia’s was awaiting, and was surprisingly good. I ordered a couple of slices and settled in with New York-style happiness. The cheese was slightly chewy (in a good way), the crust fine, and the sauce to my liking:

The following week, I found myself in Oklahoma for what’s become an annual business trip. It was a hectic time, and I found myself with just minutes to get dinner. BBQ comes quickly, so I stepped in to Bad Brad’s Bar-B-Q in Stillwater. Interesting dining room:

Here I got the usual–pulled pork sandwich, cole slaw, and baked beans–and, as usual, it was just so-so. I found myself constantly reaching for the BBQ sauce to amp up the flavor.

I spent part of the final week of the month in Michigan. Not Detroit. Not Ann Arbor (where I would be able to go to Zingerman’s Deli). Instead, I was in central and western Michigan, where I’d have to forage the best I could for food.

First night was in Alma, where I paid a visit to Pizza Sam. Seems that the owner stands by the door, surveying the scene without even a smile. But the servers were friendly. There’s a bit of a secret menu at Pizza Sam, and I didn’t get it quite right. I remembered to get the double crust, but failed to get it cooked on a screen. There’s also some option about getting spices baked in, or not. I’m not sure how the screen would have played out, but I was fairly satisfied with the pizza:

The next night I was in Mount Pleasant, and in the midst of a trip that mostly offered pizza, Mexican, and Chinese restaurants, I found a little place called Shin’s Korean Restaurant. The person helping me spoke very little English, but was pleased that I was familiar with bibimpap. It was a little on the basic side, and I would have liked more banchan offerings, but overall it wasn’t bad:

Day three of the Michigan tour takes me through Grand Rapids, where I make a stop at El Granjero Mexican Grill. Especially hungry, I order the alambre, a combination of steak, chicken, and spicy pork with melted cheese, sliced onions, tomatoes, and jalapenos. I also get a side order of guacamole for the chips. This is a grand pig-out, but the food is actually pretty good (with many of the customers Mexican):

My last meal in Michigan is a quick one in Lansing at a Chinese restaurant called Little Panda. Yes, “Panda” is a red flag that this might not be the best meal, but it’s cheap and I’m hungry. I get the Szechuan spicy beef, complete with the egg roll, old rice, and something that’s supposed to be hot and sour soup:

One can easily make the case that the dish wasn’t truly Szechuan, spicy, or perhaps even beef. But it filled me up and got me back to Seattle, closer to good Chinese food.