I had a chance to check out Plum Bistro in Capitol Hill when it opened earlier this year. I really like the space. I like Chef Makini Howell, and the brightness and boldness of most of her dishes.

So what’s the problem? I don’t like vegetarian/vegan food that substitutes non-meat products to create traditional meat dishes. At Plum Bistro, that means things like Southern-fried seitan steak salad, tofu loaf, and anything in the gourmet burger section. The texture and taste are off for me.

What I do like are fruits and vegetables used in a way to make delicious dishes. Apple-pecan salad and eggplant linguini are good examples of this.

Plum Bistro offers “gourmet vegan dining” which is sure to find an appreciative audience here in Seattle. There’s certainly creativity and quality to be found, but sadly it’s not compelling enough for a meat-eater like me.