Dinner was on-site at The Restaurant at Alderbrook, where we put ourselves in the hands of Chef Christopher Schwarz, who sent out small plates of many menu items. The shellfish sampler was a wonderful start: a gorgeous dish highlighted by a pink scallop.

After a couple of competent salads came the most memorable part of the meal: a pair of stellar soups. A coconut-based soup smacked of Thai green curry (though not as strong) featuring sweet potatoes along with peas, pea vine tendrils and snap peas that made the dish ring spring. And a tomato-basil soup was a throwback to childhood days of a grilled cheese sandwich and Campbell’s tomato soup. But this was the adult version, rich and sophisticated, topped with a cheese crouton and a sprinkling of herb oil. Delicious!

From the fresh sheet, we loved the smokiness of the chili marinated gulf prawns, though we picked around the accompanying baby chick peas (as we did with the shellfish sampler). An even better starter was the hot smoked Columbia River king salmon; served with snap peas, pea tendrils, golden beets, and a mild horseradish crème fraîche, the salmon (apparently just smoked) was almost candy-like—in a good way.

Disappointing were our entrées—Anderson Valley lamb T-bone chops (a little gristly) and grilled bigeye tuna (a bit bland)—which were abundant (the full plates had huge portions) and ambitious, but perhaps overly so. Chef Schwartz’s dishes tend toward complex—great when it works—but for these entrées, there were too many ingredients and tastes competing with each other. For example, the tuna came crowded with sweet potato hash, spring onions, brown butter and bacon-braised green beans, and roasted tomatillo salsa.

Alderbrook can be a great getaway for fjord and food fun. We’d encourage you to especially try the soups and seafood starters, and to time your dinner to coincide with sunset, as the water view is special. You can enjoy dessert as we did in the dining room, though note that if kids are about, you’ll likely find makings for s’mores at the firepit. From the tomato-basil soup to the s’mores, the kids in us came out as we retreated to our room, enjoying our relaxing stay.

Originally posted at Seattlest (where “we” = me) on June 16, 2008.

Seattle is a fantastic food city. Okay, so it’s hard to get good dim sum or a real bagel, but we’ve got some great chefs, decent diversity, and interesting markets selling lots of local produce, meats, and seafood. And while the city itself is beautiful and full of activity, there’s even more to explore just a short drive away. With rising gas prices putting the pinch on long-distance travel, I’m liking the idea of nearby overnight stays for some rest and relaxation. But as a restaurant reviewer, I don’t want my getaway to mean compromising on food quality. (Yes, I’m obsessive that way.) So, for this month’s Dish-Off, I invited three properties to each host me for a night. Their challenge: To provide the ultimate escape from Seattle, proving themselves worthy destinations of a short flight for food.

Willows Lodge is in the midst of Woodinville’s wineries, making it an ideal place to stay when taking in a summer concert at Chateau Ste. Michelle. I love the ultra-contemporary feeling, including the excellent temperature and lighting controls, and the bathtub is simply fabulous. A pre-dinner stroll on the grounds reveals some pleasing art and gardens; I especially enjoy seeing all the herbs and visiting the resident pigs.

If you’re feeling financially frisky, The Herbfarm is here, leasing land from the lodge. A little less pricey is Willows’ official restaurant, Barking Frog, where Chef Bobby Moore promises wine-inspired Northwest cuisine. Halibut and lamb entrees fit the bill, but surprisingly, it’s what comes with those dishes that shines the most. Included with the pretty-as-a-picture Alaskan halibut (am I the only one getting bored with this relatively plain-tasting fish?) are pleasing pea and prawn ravioli along with morel mushrooms and pea vines that suit the season. And while the lamb loin’s okay, I push it aside in favor of the accompanying ham hock risotto, highlighted by a Pinot Noir poached duck egg; this is a ham-and-egg combination that’s divine.

I probably should have pushed a little more food aside. Except for a somewhat disappointing lamb carpaccio, everything’s good, with bold and strong flavors (e.g., seared foie gras with poached rhubarb), though a little heavy. Don’t get me wrong; I’m a fan of fried foods, but from the super-fun and filling start of popcorn lobster to the beet salad’s fried goat cheese to the final taste of can’t-resist, Creole-style beignets that accompany the chocolate pot de crème, I myself am feeling fried. And I’m not sure if I’m transported to a place in the Northwest, or elsewhere in America, as I stumble back to my convenient and comfortable bedroom in a bit of a food coma.

Closer to Seattle is Kirkland’s Heathman Hotel, which boasts (and delivers) smart service, and gets my nod for best bed of the bunch. Each floor offers a different choice of mattress, and I’m thrilled to test-drive a Tempur-Pedic. My room is cozy and comfortable, with a small step-out balcony that offers a peek-a-boo view of Lake Washington. I walk to the water, stepping out on a pier to peer back at the city I’ve left behind for my stay in Kirkland.

Heathman may be an urban hotel, but Trellis offers a fine farm-to-table dining experience that’s reminiscent of the European countryside. In charge is Chef Brian Scheehser, an organic farmer with three acres just minutes away; his harvest helps determine the evening’s menu. I’m carnivoracious, but no one will need to tell me to eat my vegetables tonight. My favorite dish is “rabbit two ways.” While I devour both the braised and grilled cuts of meat (and gluttonously gulp down the rabbit-essenced broth), it’s the vegetables—often overlooked in a dish like this—that are the true stars. The gorgeous Easter egg radishes, turnips, carrots and spring onions are delicately cooked for a fresh-from-the-garden taste. Same is true for a tagliatelle of vegetables (celery, carrot, zucchini and squash), which appears under that ever-present halibut. But this one’s better than Barking Frog’s, as is the lamb carpaccio, sliced thin and succulent, topped with minted tomatoes and arugula.

The only let-down, surprisingly, is the trademark “two-hour” chef’s garden salad. It’s a fresh selection of mixed leaves (like deer’s tongue) picked prior to the meal, but perhaps the servers’ hype led to higher expectations. That said, if one minor disappointment is this delicious, then dinner as a whole gets high marks. Like dessert (lemon-sage flan, perfectly paired with limoncello), the meal is fulfilling without being too filling. There’s great variety, and I don’t miss starch—though Scheehser assures me his potatoes, when ready, are well worth a return visit. I believe him. Trellis’ food reflects the chef himself: calm, confident and refreshing.

Further afield is The Inn at Langley, but it’s actually only 35 miles in the car and a quick ferry ride that, along with the pace of Whidbey Island, make for a true escape from Seattle. The rooms at Willows and Heathman may be more modern, but every room here has a magnificent 180-degree waterfront view. While I walk briefly on the rocky beach, I mostly enjoy the view (watching for whales) from the room’s window seats, the balcony, and even the sunken, jetted tub—which also faces a fireplace.

Dinner at The Inn at Langley Restaurant is a little different: a smallish affair (just 34 seats) with a set starting time and a set menu that changes nightly. Dominating the warm dining room (I like the double-hearth fireplace) is an open kitchen where I watch Chef Matt Costello at work. Tables feel private, but there’s a communal feeling as everyone waits in anticipation. Before service starts, Costello addresses his audience, speaking with pride about his desire to show off the island’s riches—from the furnishings to the food. Dinner is an extended affair, with each course offering something special and sometimes unexpected. The amuse bouche is a delightful nibble of local beets, roasted with vanilla and served with creamy avocado. There will be locally produced honey, just-picked lettuce, and wild garlic leaves and nettles. I savor weathervane sea scallops with truffle-enhanced barley risotto, slow-roasted salmon with just-harvested Penn Cove mussels (Costello promises they’ll be the best, and they are), and tender lamb with fresh corn polenta so sweet that I could eat it for dessert.

Course after course has imagination; even the intermezzo, cantaloupe sorbet with marinated feta and basil, is delightful—startingly salty but palate-cleansing. Costello likes to play with his cheese course, and on this night Delice de Bourgogne comes with rose water strawberries, pepper biscotti and candied ginger—an intriguing combination of textures and tastes. As I gather up some of Langley’s Island Angel chocolates and retreat back to my room, breathing in the salty air, I’m feeling like I’m having an idyllic island experience—a real Seattle getaway.

All three properties have positive aspects. Close the curtains, and Willows Lodge offers the best room of the group and potential for a satisfying, wine-centric stay. I love Trellis, and am eager to return at another time during the growing season. For the price of one meal at either Barking Frog or The Inn at Langley, two people can enjoy Brian Scheehser’s crops and country-style preparations; with its proximity to Seattle, you can make the trip at a moment’s notice without need to stay overnight. But for a special occasion and a true escape from Seattle, The Inn at Langley is the perfect getaway. If you don’t mind a set menu (personally, I like letting the chef choose, as it gets me to try new things), Matt Costello whips up winning dishes that are innovative and incredible. And along with the sensational food, you get that spectacular view; I enjoyed it the next morning until the last possible moment when I reluctantly pulled myself out of the Adirondack chair, took one last look, and headed home to Seattle with many happy memories.

WINNER: Inn at Langley

Note: Dish-Off reviews are based on announced visits. Restaurants get guidelines and choose what to serve according to the month’s theme.

Tulalip offers surprisingly sumptuous dining options. A specially organized “Dine Around” meant a progressive dinner: welcome reception in the Tulalip Suite, appetizers at Blackfish (Wild Salmon Grill & Bar), entrees at Tulalip Bay, and desserts in the mpulse Lounge. I enjoyed Blackfish and its traditional salmon on a stick (even better over a corn-bacon fritter), but what continues to amaze me is Tulalip Bay, and Chef Dean Shinegawa’s ability to exceed expectations—making me feel far from the smoky, noisy casino just outside the restaurant’s doors. He puts together elegant dishes using fresh Northwest ingredients, often prepared with Eastern elements. As in a previous visit, I enjoyed crab-crusted Alaskan halibut (a fish that typically bores me) with wok vegetables, wasabi mashed potatoes and Sriracha chilli sauce, but the star this night was the plate of hazelnut-crusted lamb chops. Served over sweet potato hash, the lamb was tender and tasty, with the star anise cherry lamb jus a perfect accompaniment—adding a welcomed fruitiness and Asian accent to the dish.

Nikol Nakamura’s assortment of desserts put an exclamation point on the evening. I loved her butterscotch pudding on a spoon, pumpkin bar on a stick, and chocolate-raspberry parfait in a weebly-wobbly, little glass bowl. (Nikol, how about offering a dessert sampler like this on the menu?) Sweet…as were the workers. Friendly and hospitable, they show tremendous pride in their place of work, and deservedly so. Tulalip’s got game. It was well worth a drive to have a delightful experience; if you go, you can see why they claim to be the “#1 place for fun.”

Cross-posted on Examiner.

We recommend that your relaxation include at least an overnight stay. There are many B&Bs from which to choose; one recent weekend, our choice was Ashingdon Manor. It’s right down the road from downtown Langley (you can take a pleasant little hike through the woods to get there!), where plans for dinner were our only commitment.

Proprietors Daniel and Bay Ginder won’t strike you as the Ashingdon-adoring sort; the B&B’s name dates back to the previous owners who apparently vacationed in that English village and decided to make a manor to memorialize their many times there. So we felt like royalty when we placed our belongings in the “Luxurious Hampton Court” suite with its canopy king bed, two-person Jacuzzi, fireplace, and French doors that open to a private deck and view of one of the gardens.

But back to the proprietors. They’re recently from South Carolina and bring a sense of Southern hospitality to the B&B. For those who see public interaction of such a stay as a distraction from the notion of a romantic getaway, Daniel and Bay note that you have a private entrance to the first part of “B&B” (Bed) and that they are willing to bring the second part (Breakfast) to your room. But, if you’d like to socialize, you can meet other travelers during breakfast (or anytime) at the 13-foot pine harvest table in the dining room.

Did someone say breakfast? Daniel and Bay have extensive experience in food service, so they’ll take good care of you. If you have a multi-day stay, expect breakfast to alternate between sweet and savory dishes. You might have French toast with Nutella and cream cheese one day, then maybe a Mexican egg scramble the next. We enjoyed eggs Benedict our morning there, though with Bay being from Laos, we’d like to see her bring a little of her cuisine to the table (perhaps some sticky rice, with either a classic hot sauce or jeow ba dek!).

Whether giving you space or sharing theirs, Daniel and Bay want you to feel at home in their home. We enjoyed cozying up to the kitchen counter, sitting by the stream-fed pond, and strolling the grounds. With six guest rooms and lots of communal space, Ashingdon Manor is an ideal place for special events like weddings, company retreats, and the like. In fact, this weekend they’re hosting “Jazz at the Manor,” with John Stowell and Randy Porter performing. ($10 admission, with limited seating and reservations requested by contacting Ashingdon Manor.) Daniel and Bay are thrilled to be part of the Langley community and excited to help guests explore and enjoy it.

And about Langley: It’s a lovely place to hang out, whether shopping in the stores, walking along the beach during low tide, or enjoying a fine dinner at the Inn at Langley. We did all three before calling it a night, returning to our manor with happy memories and the chance to relax and sleep like a king and a queen.