My answer of late, until now: Poppy.

I’ve heard mostly positive reviews, and I know Chef Jerry Traunfeld can cook. So what’s the hold-up? Indian might be my least favorite Asian cuisine, and at Poppy’s price point, I’ve been fearful of disappointment even though the food is only “Indian-influenced” (depending on who you ask). Also, I’m not excited about small portions. If something’s delicious, I want a meat loaf-sized portion, or something close, so I can dig in and keep enjoying it.

But after a spicy Chinese meal with friends (more on that very soon), we found ourselves on Capitol Hill and hungry for something a little different. A perfect time for dessert at Poppy! (Okay, so I’ve still yet to try Traunfeld’s food at Poppy. Per a friend’s recommendation, maybe I’ll man up for a naanwich at the late night happy hour sometime as the next step. By then, a full-fledged meal won’t be far behind, I’m guessing.)

Thalis are the thing at Poppy, allowing for a multitude of small bites that comprise a meal. The thali concept extends to dessert, which means a great many things to taste. (The snap of the ginger chip cookies in the photo made it one of my favorite bites on the plate.) But that wasn’t all we had. We had extra desserts, including a chocolate chip licorice ice cream that knocked my socks off. I make a lot of ice cream at home (lemongrass being my latest), including anise ice cream from The Perfect Scoop, David Lebovitz’s fabulous cookbook. But while anise seed steeps for that recipe, the one at Poppy had extra zing. I thought it must be licorice extract, but I wasn’t sure, so when I had a chance to ask Pastry Chef Dana Cree for the secret, she had already shared the recipe – and there was the extract! But there was also anise hyssop, which last wowed me during dinner at The Herbfarm. Hmm…it’s snowing in Seattle today, but I think I know what I need to start growing next spring.

Pull up to the restaurant and you’ll notice their sky blue sign, proudly proclaiming “Winner of the Zagat Award.” For food? Décor? Service?

No. We think Taste of India must have gotten a Zagat Award for chai. And little did we know that the restaurant is full of chai pushers.

Like the start of most any addiction, we brought it on ourselves. (Okay, maybe we have a genetic pre-disposition to chai. Best not to get into the addiction debate here.) Sitting at the top of the drink list, for the cost of a $2 bill, the call of chai pulls you in: “An ancient tea of India, made up of milk, cardamom, cloves, fennel, and sugar.” Mmm… fennel. A natural digestive aid. Perfect for the variety and abundance of dishes we ordered that night. Was it naan or roti? Biryani or tandoori? Masala or vindaloo? Rogan Josh or Josh Rogan? Wait…Josh Rogan…he wrote the second segment of Twilight Zone: The Movie, and is actually a she (Melissa Mathison) – the screenwriter of The Indian in the Cupboard. But that’s the other kind of Indian. Our heads are spinning.

Really, we don’t remember what we ate. The food was fine, but it’s the drink that dominated. We’d heard that chai’s a relaxant, a stress reliever, a wellspring of well-being with a warm and soothing effect. That it’s difficult to resist a second cup. How could we, when about a dozen different servers were constantly coming to our table to inject us with another hit?

They pushed, and we partook. It was a symbiotic relationship. And it was great. We’re not sure how to count the cups of a bottomless cup, but we now know that too much chai starts out relaxing, then soon sends us into our own Twilight Zone.

Originally posted at Seattlest (where “we = “me”) on October 20, 2006.

INCREDELICIOUS 2008 is a fundraiser for EKAL Seattle, which works to improve literacy and to educate tribal children in India. The organizers tell me that the local chapter raised enough funds this past year to open over 100 schools. This cook-off will increase awareness of their efforts and help further their cause.

Entry to the cooking part of the competition sold out quickly. Participants will prepare appetizers and desserts, and I’m anticipating that a good portion of the 60 planned dishes will be Indian food—and the majority Asian. For $5 (free for those 10 and under), you’ll get to sample the competitors’ food and vote for your favorite, with the winner receiving a “popular choice” award. (Note that Spice Route will be preparing additional food for the event.) Meanwhile, I’ll be part of a panel of judges charged with the challenge of choosing the best dishes of the evening. And if you’d like to learn more about the art of evaluating food, you can bid for the chance to have lunch with yours truly at an area restaurant. We’ll critique the food, and your comments can appear in one of my future reviews!

Other items will be up for auction, and expect raffle prizes, too—along with the good food and good fun. Register online and plan to come to the Old Redmond Schoolhouse Community Center this Saturday from 5-7 p.m.