Dish:

On the plate: Per the menu: “Stir fried Indian yellow curry with fresh egg noodles, chicken (beef or tofu), carrot, pepper, basil, green bean, mushroom and onion.” I ordered mine with beef, and in addition to the listed vegetables, this preparation included cabbage and broccoli.

Supporting cast/What to do: Just dig in.

Noodling around: Root Table’s Bollywood Yakisoba is a twist on the popular Japanese dish. Yaki means fried and soba means noodle (the generic noodle, not the buckwheat soba noodle). In Japan, the noodle dish is typically made with pork, stir-fried with carrots, onions, and cabbage. This version left out the typical Japanese flavoring from yakisoba sauce (a thicker, sweeter variety of Worcestershire), aonori (seaweed flakes), beni shoga (strips of pickled ginger), and katsuobushi (bonito flakes). To change it up and achieve the Indian fusion, Root Table added a few vegetables and yellow curry, which infused the dish with decent heat. The stir-fried egg noodles were cut short as if for a child, which I found frustrating to eat, but the flavors were good.

Given the Bollywood name, I was half hoping for a song-and-dance number with delivery of my noodles. That didn’t happen.

But in a Bollywood-like, melodramatic twist of fate slash reversal of fortune, my dining companion got the better noodle dish: Burmese Noodle Curry. Picture pretty much the same vegetables (she changed to chicken for the meat) in a yellow curry soup. The grilling of the chicken was a nice touch, adding smokiness, and the addition of crisp noodles on top added contrast to the soft egg noodles. As the menu said, the broth was rich, silky and delightful to finish. At $9, the Burmese Noodle Curry was good to the last drop, offering paisa vasool (”money’s worth”).

If you want more: There’s an interesting tapas menu full of potential starters. Lemongrass Chicken Lollipops, Thai Bruschetta, and Sweet Pumpkin Tempura are all tempting, with Cajun Calamari looking just a little out of place. But you might find the Root Fries ($5) most fetching. These seasoned, hand-cut root vegetables (think taro, sweet potato, and the like) are deep-fried and served with homemade spicy ketchup.

Be aware/beware: This is one of the most pleasant places for Asian food at this price point. No Bollywood tunes, but chill music to relax by, and an earthy, warm atmosphere. Carved wood-slabs form the table tops, and some of the seats are tree stumps–though they can get a little uncomfortable if you want to linger for too long.

This little outpost above the QFC at Broadway and Pike in Capitol Hill looks and feels like the inside of the truck. And while they’re serving those same kimchi quesadillas, kimchi fried rice, sliders and tacos, you can explore some specials, including the current one: loco moco. This Hawaiian specialty consists of a hamburger patty with brown gravy over rice, topped with a fried egg—along with a little extra special something that provides a Marination twist.

Co-owner Kamala Saxton calls loco moco “Hawaiian menudo”—perfect hangover food. Keep that in mind, as you can order beer at Marination Station, and there’s even patio space turned beer garden just outside the door.

I was glad to give loco moco a try at last night’s soft opening; it’s food many will find comforting. And while I look forward to other specials, I’m still a sucker for the kalbi tacos—so bright, and so right.

It’s been quite a year for Rachel Yang and Seif Chirchi, the chef duo from Joule, which just celebrated its third anniversary. 2010 started with the couple’s appearance on Iron Chef America. In the summer, they had a baby. And now, as the year comes to a close, they have another baby: Revel.

Revel, in Fremont, opens today. Most striking when you enter is the open kitchen and its 24-foot maple cooking station. Whereas at Joule you had to crane your neck while sitting at the counter to check out the cooking action, a counter seat at Revel feels like being right in the kitchen.

And if last night’s sneak peek is any indication, you can expect the food at Revel to be just as fabulous as what Yang and Chirchi have been serving up at Joule–which is one of Seattle’s top three “Most Delicious” restaurants in the recently released Fearless Critic Seattle Restaurant Guide.

The menu: Asian street food with a non-traditional twist. Look for small sections of Asian pancakes (I enjoyed the one with pork belly, kimchi and bean sprouts), dumplings (the short rib dumpling with shallot and scallion has fantastic flavor, though I wish it had just a slightly chewier wrapper), and rice and noodle dishes.

My favorite dish at the preview featured homemade noodles with five-spiced duck balls, lacinato kale, and smoked chili. And I always love Yang and Chirchi’s salads; an offering with spinach, sunchokes and miso vinaigrette offered a refreshing counterbalance to the grilled and pan-fried foods.

Revel will be open for dinner daily, and for lunch Mondays through Fridays. Brunch service will commence January 8, at which time I look forward to trying the Korean hangover soup with black pudding and Swiss chard.

With seating for 45 and then 20 more at Quoin, the adjacent bar where you can sip some infused soju, chances are that tables may be tough to get at times. (The good news: Revel and Quoin will have 20 and 15 seats, respectively, when the weather warms and the outdoor deck opens.) Pointing out the hip art and architecture, Yang told me they anticipate a younger crowd than they draw at Joule. That, combined with all the hard surfaces, translates to a noisy dining room. Hopefully, if Revel lives up to its potential, diners with have mouths full of food and not fill the space with too much noise.

Ivar’s is a Seattle institution. No doubt about that. And that institution was in the news this year, with stories about its underwater billboards. For me, the story is whether its food warrants a stop or not. This past year, I had chances to try the fish and chips, clam chowder, clam strips, and the like. It is what it is. Fairly fast food that’s fun for those who like their fish fried. For me, nothing special, though the chowder isn’t bad on a cold, wintery day.

If you’re on 15th in Ballard, as I was one trip to Ivar’s, I recommend driving a little further north and turning right on 70th, where you’ll find Honore Artisan Bakery. That’s a sweet plate of sweets, eh? I stared at the showcase, and couldn’t decide what would be best for my coffee break, so I decided to try three goodies: (clockwise from the top) a canelé, a coconut/salted caramel macaron, and a kouign amman. All were delicious, especially with that coffee. And note the caramel theme in the confectionery trio. I liked the macaron best, which means that next time, the challenge will be choosing from the ten or so flavors that Honoré offers.

Speaking of sweets, I find it sweet that 2009 was the year that food carts/trucks took off in Seattle. Perhaps sweetest of them all is Parfait, where Adria Shimada dishes out ice cream made with the finest, most local and organic ingredients – with no corn syrup, no added stabilizers, and no preservatives. Look for Parfait’s return in the spring, and while it’s hard to choose from the many tempting flavors (that are always subject to change), I’d highly recommend the fresh mint stracciatella made from mint leaves that give it a natural, refreshing taste.

Hallava Falafel is another food truck, but one that’s parked in a permanent position down in Georgetown. You’ve basically got two choices: the falafel sandwich, and the shawarma. (Hallava spells it “shwarma.”) Both are healthy-sized sandwiches, and both are adorned with beets and other goodies. Both are worth trying, though I think the shawarma edges out the falafel, which was just a little dry. Good deals at $6.50 each!

But the best food truck now roaming the streets of Seattle (and about the only mobile truck operating through the winter) is Marination Mobile. Take the wonderful forms of Mexican food, and amp up the flavor with Korean and Hawaiian influences, and it’s a whole new ball game. Tacos are just two dollars, and they’re available in four varieties–trust me when I say kalbi beef is the best.

What impresses me most, though, was the Kalua kimchi quesadilla. Oh, I enjoy the fermented veggies in the kimchi fried rice bowl ($5), with a fried egg adding its usual magic. But in the quesadilla, kimchi elevates what I usually see as a throwaway dish to something spectacular. The kimchi has more zing than in the fried rice, playing nicely with the Kalua pork, and a smattering of slaw and jalapeno slices on top finished the dish in fine fashion.

And in case you’re wondering, the spam sliders are surprisingly delicious.

Marination Mobile is proof that curb cuisine is catching kimchi-like fire in Seattle. How hot are the Marination mavens? They recently won Good Morning America Weekend’s national Best Food Cart Challenge. Great job, Marination! And here’s hoping 2010 brings us even more great street food…

But when I’m asked the inevitable “What’s your favorite restaurant?” question, the answer remains Joule. The cooking is brilliant and the flavors bold. Today, I enjoyed helping them celebrate their second birthday, featuring a special Halloween menu that highlighted the creativity that makes Joule special. For example, a dish called “Cow’s Goo” (”veal’s brain ravioli” with black olive pasta and hazelnut cream, pictured) was a “scary” sight for the eyes, while my group’s favorite dish was the “Anti-vampire garlic bite”: garlic-stuffed pork belly with preserved garlic and scallion on toast.

I’m clearly not the only fan of Joule; chefs Seif Chirchi and Rachel Yang have received lots of well-deserved accolades regionally and nationally. And in breaking news, just before the birthday bash, they flew to New York where they filmed an episode of Iron Chef. No word yet on when it will air (Chirchi and Yang were upholding their million dollar pledge to keep secret the details), but bravo to both chefs, who have so much to celebrate!

The article makes mention of Kogi, the Korean taco truck that’s all the rage in Los Angeles (when do we get one of those in Seattle?), the popularity of Korean frozen yogurt (Pinkberry, Red Mango, and the like – though I think froyo is going through another passing phase), and the integration of Korean ingredients like kimchi and kochujang into non-Korean cooking.

I believe that Joule is one of the more underappreciated restaurants in the city, so I’m pleased to see it get some publicity – even if overlooked by the on-fire Rachael Ray during her recent visits to Seattle. And, for the record, I’ll take Rachel Yang’s cooking over Rachael Ray’s cooking anytime.

Joule.

Recall that Joule is in my list of top five Asian restaurants in Seattle, and may be my top pick overall for the past year. It’s that good.

I enjoyed some of my favorite dishes, like the spicy beef soup (with leeks, daikon and creme fraiche) and wild boar spare ribs (with spicy Korean BBQ glaze and collard slaw), while remembering some past favorites, like the incredible chicken liver mousse popsicles from last year’s Urban BBQ Series. But I was also introduced to some new dishes, including perfectly grilled Madagascar prawns (pictured, with grilled scallions and spicy Romesco) and green “bean” casserole, which is now a new favorite. It’s made with edamame, with shitake mushrooms adding earthiness, and cream and Pecorino Romano adding comfort. A classic East meets West dish!

Based on the success of the Urban BBQ Series, Joule is now offering a Winter Supper Series. The first event has passed, but seven follow:

• 1/11: Before hibernation: Pig out!
• 1/18: Winter getaway I: French farmhouse cassoulet
• 1/25: Celebrate the Lunar New Year: Year of the Ox
• 2/1: Cure for the common cold: Honey, soups, teas, spices and more
• 2/8: Winter getaway II: February in Korea
• 2/15: His day: Post-Valentine’s comfort food
• 2/22: Winter in Seattle: Dungeness crab

 These family-style suppers cost $20 per person ($10 per child) and run from 3 to 8 p.m. Chef Seif Chirchi says they’re the perfect remedy for cold winter days in Seattle, and are lots of fun for him (and co-chef/owner Rachel Yang) and the customers. Fusion food that’s actually good – and full of comfort!

Cross-posted on Examiner.

Wanna have some foodie fun? Go to Chowhound’s Pacific Northwest message board, ask for opinions about Wild Ginger, and watch a virtual food fight break out. People will passionately toss out terms like “fake Asian” versus “the real thing,” debating whether fusion fare is a good or bad idea. Fusion, it seems, is fertile ground for foodie opining.

Putting aside my perspective on Wild Ginger until another time, I believe that Eastern and Western ingredients and cooking styles can combine with creative payoff. So for this month’s Dish-Off, Sound invited three restaurants to participate in an “East meets West” competition. The goal: to straddle the globe, experiencing the tastes, textures and techniques of two (or more) distinct parts of the world without boarding a boat or a plane. I want dishes with ingredients that intermingle in a way that’s sensible yet sometimes surprising, resulting in food that’s eye-opening and mouth-watering.

Qube is bold, from its apple martini green wall framing the kitchen to its three-course “Qubed Sets” (three ingredients prepared three ways yielding nine small tasting dishes). A creative concept, but challenging—with definite hits and misses in each trio I tried. For example, in the vegetarian set’s artichoke trio, the purée with fava beans and grape tomatoes (and the slightest hint of Thai basil) is bright and refreshing, but the chips ‘n’ dip is meager and uninspiring—an odd choice for an entrée. Sadly, the Asian flavors are lacking or missing straight through to dessert; the star anise brownie, lychee hot chocolate, and tamarind and lime crème brulee all come up short. Disappointing, as these exotic flavors are enticing, and I’m hoping an East-meets-West twist can spice up some otherwise standard fare. Ironically, my favorite dish is an extra: ?The chef sends out a plate of thin-sliced kona kampachi with yuzu sambal, soy, Meyer lemon, shaved fennel, soy salt, and wasabi and pea purée. The flavors are distinct while working well together, jazzing up the already fine-quality fish. So while the warm staff offers well-meaning intentions with “Qubed Sets” that are, well, “qute,” I’d recommend trying the à la carte menu to see if you have better luck there.

It’s a similar story at Coupage. The quality of the food is fantastic, especially the steamed clams—the highlight of the meal. At first glance I think I see chorizo in the bowl, but the first bite reveals the sweetness of Chinese sausage, a good counter to the clams. With confit tomatoes adding brightness, I’m feeling East meeting West, but I want more potency from the promised lemongrass and Thai chili dashi. And so it would be: well-executed dishes shy on Asian accent. Some of the best crab cakes in town, but lost are the red curry and kabocha touted in the “pumpkin custard” name. The red oak leaf salad is perfected dressed, and though I dig the pickled daikon and carrots, enough already with the trend of adding candied nuts to salad. And I’m wondering, “Where’s the wasabi?”

Most curious were the entrée choices. The halibut and duck confit are darn good but deficient in Eastern elements; I’d think the scallops with glass noodles and red curry or the braised short ribs with kimchi beets might have made better choices. For dessert, I have high hopes for the baby banana tempura with Sichuan peppercorns. I adore these peppercorns; only recently allowed back in the United States (they’re a fruit), they are part of the ma la (numbing and spicy) aspect of Sichuan cooking. I use them in my homemade ice cream, but at Coupage they’re weak with no numbing effect at all. Is ma not part of Madrona?

Which brings us to Joule, its name alone exuding electricity. From the opening amuse bouche (daikon spring roll with white anchovy and chimichurri sauce) to the closing desserts (including the popular “joule box,” featuring tapioca pearls, opal basil and ruby grapefruit), Joule offers a fine fusion of East and West. The showstopper: incredibly tender beef and local fiddlehead ferns swimming in a fiery red, kimchi and chili paste/flake soup served with a splash of crème fraiche. Warming and wonderful! The chilled seafood salad features sweet chili vinaigrette that is perfectly balanced. The only hiccup of the night is the octopus served with the seaweed salad; braised then grilled, it’s a little too salty and intense (though I’m appreciating the chewy textures I typically associate with the East). But the rest is fabulous: cassoulet with garlic, miso and truffle flavors accompanied by cornbread with preserved garlic and smoked Gouda. How’s that for globe-trotting ingredients?

From the “sparked” section of the menu, I enjoy daurade with almond piccata and sweet and sour eggplant, as well as wild boar spare ribs with spicy Korean BBQ glaze and collard green slaw. Both are fusion dishes, and what I love most is that both meat and fish are on the bone. That’s East, and what the West used to be before we went to boneless everything. Joule indeed has innovation and spark. And its own kind of elegance, though casual enough that if Chefs Rachel Yang and Seif Chirchi see me picking at those meat and fish bones, I’m sure they’ll smile with appreciation.

All three restaurants excel in classical French technique. It’s not a knock on the quality, but the bone I’d pick with Qube and Coupage is that they don’t offer the bold, brash flavors I seek. They’re more West than East. I can’t help but wonder if it’s because they lack an Asian chef in the kitchen—which both had previously. Where Qube and Coupage give the East a mere peck on the cheek, Joule gives it a full-on French kiss. I like that.

WINNER: Joule

Note: Dish-Off reviews are based on announced visits. Restaurants get guidelines and choose what to serve according to the month’s theme. (Also note that Qube and Coupage are now closed.)

Tulalip offers surprisingly sumptuous dining options. A specially organized “Dine Around” meant a progressive dinner: welcome reception in the Tulalip Suite, appetizers at Blackfish (Wild Salmon Grill & Bar), entrees at Tulalip Bay, and desserts in the mpulse Lounge. I enjoyed Blackfish and its traditional salmon on a stick (even better over a corn-bacon fritter), but what continues to amaze me is Tulalip Bay, and Chef Dean Shinegawa’s ability to exceed expectations—making me feel far from the smoky, noisy casino just outside the restaurant’s doors. He puts together elegant dishes using fresh Northwest ingredients, often prepared with Eastern elements. As in a previous visit, I enjoyed crab-crusted Alaskan halibut (a fish that typically bores me) with wok vegetables, wasabi mashed potatoes and Sriracha chilli sauce, but the star this night was the plate of hazelnut-crusted lamb chops. Served over sweet potato hash, the lamb was tender and tasty, with the star anise cherry lamb jus a perfect accompaniment—adding a welcomed fruitiness and Asian accent to the dish.

Nikol Nakamura’s assortment of desserts put an exclamation point on the evening. I loved her butterscotch pudding on a spoon, pumpkin bar on a stick, and chocolate-raspberry parfait in a weebly-wobbly, little glass bowl. (Nikol, how about offering a dessert sampler like this on the menu?) Sweet…as were the workers. Friendly and hospitable, they show tremendous pride in their place of work, and deservedly so. Tulalip’s got game. It was well worth a drive to have a delightful experience; if you go, you can see why they claim to be the “#1 place for fun.”

Cross-posted on Examiner.

The interiors of the two restaurants are strikingly similar. As are the workers. (My brother tells me that the t-shirted, laid-back attitude is hip in New York now. I’m not used to servers tossing food in front of me and mumbling – albeit in a proud, friendly – the contents of the dishes while moving away from the table such that by the time I hear the word “enjoy” they’re basically back at the bar or on to the next table. Anyway.) And the steamed pork buns, oh-so-tempting to try again. But I wanted something different.

Four dishes did us well. (Expect to pay about $10 each for the small plates, country hams, and local/seasonal items; the larger plates and raw bar items are a bit more, and the bo ssam jumps up to $200!) I’d heard a lot about the fried Brussels sprouts, so they were a must-try. Interesting, and with all kinds of action: mint, scallions, Rice Krispies-like rice puffs, and a fish sauce vinaigrette, but a little disappointing. The sprouts were chopped smaller than I like, so they didn’t deliver enough of their taste and got lost amidt all the other ingredients.

Better were the Meacham County ham platter (smoky, and with red-eye gravy made with mayonnaise, coffee and Sriracha that gave the meat a big boost) and the Sichuan beef tendon with green mango and peanuts. But best of all were the spicy rice cakes. “Spicy” sells me on most anything, but when I see “rice cakes,” I think of those bland, cardboard-like disks that seemed to be all the rage with vegetarians and dieters not long ago. But knowing Chef David Chang, I had to assume this would be something special – especially since they were served with pork sausage, Chinese broccoli and crispy shallots. Special they were. These were small puffy disks with a crispy exterior and tender to the tooth – a tasty treat with the other combined flavors. Great stuff. I’m two-for-two with my Momofuku experiences. The difficult-to-land Momofuku Ko experience is the one that I can still only dream about.