It’s hard to know whether Maneki made the final cut, as Zimmern goes to many places in each location, with some naturally ending up on the cutting room floor. But you can be sure that the following five highlights (teased in this video clip) will be featured in the episode which airs tonight on the Travel Channel (6pm if you have HD, 9pm on standard cable):

1. Coffee: a taste of Seattle’s coffee culture, including a stop at Seattle Coffee Works
2. Geoduck (cutely but mistakenly spelled “gooey duck” on the Travel Channel website): an experience that looks like what Bourdain did during his No Reservations shoot
3. Modernist Cuisine: a visit to Nathan Myrhvold’s Intellectual Ventures
4. Sea Breeze Farm: a placenta-eating, blood-drinking adventure
5. FareStart: a chance to teach students to cook with offal while learning about this amazing organization

[Update: Maneki made it in the show as part of a segment on Asian cuisine in Seattle. Oh...and I had a two-second cameo in the 6pm broadcast, but apparently not in the 9pm broadcast!]

This year’s guest chefs, though, were three celebrities from the Seattle restaurant scene: Jason Franey of Canlis, Thierry Rautureau of Rover’s and Luc, and Jason Wilson of Crush. An experience at any of their restaurants can be amazing. This multi-course meal with all three of them contributing was simply magical.

Franey prepared small bites for the reception, including foie gras pumpkin pie, sweet potato tapioca pudding with prawn, and a gorgeous rabbit loin with pine ash, apple, and yuzu. (Unfortunately, I was unable to capture any photos of these passed plates.)

Following Hassell’s salad course and Rautureau’s foie gras pairing (one as part of a smoked duck gizzard salad that I especially enjoyed), Wilson served a refreshing plate with geoduck, sea vegetables, sorrel, and Meyer lemon:

Next up was the duck course, in which Rautureau plated cured duck breast with flageolet puree, chanterelle mushrooms, foie gras nage, and harissa jam (and, yes, he has a bit of a foie gras fetish, which is fine by me):

Wilson followed this up with pork and fish, serving Pacific turbot and pig skins (chicharrones) with cured foie gras sauce (the fetish was contagious), red wine onion lentils, pork belly, and fennel:

The evening ended with Hassell’s dessert of caramel-poached Seckel pears (delicious!) with crispy shortbread and creme fraiche ice cream. After Chateau Ste. Michelle wine pairings throughout the meal, this course came with a full glass of Leffe beer.

As much fun as it was to sample all the wonderful food, I also enjoyed watching the chefs at work in the kitchen. While earnest in their endeavors, Franey, Rautureau, and Wilson worked as a team in a fun and playful manner in getting each of the courses out to the dining room. Observing them made me appreciative of all the culinary talent we have in our area, and thankful for any opportunity I have to sample the spectacular food all these chefs create day to day.

I reported previously about travel to the Yakima Valley

If you’re searching for something special, something romantic, you’ll need to go beyond Yakima and get into the countryside. Oh, there are decent places to stay in the city. Yakima’s Fairfield Inn has suites that are spacious and clean, and the Hilton Garden Inn is right downtown, in walking distance of shopping, restaurants, and winery showrooms. But both are more conventional hotels, well-suited to those who come to Yakima for, let’s say, a convention.

Romance can come with reconnecting with someone in a more natural setting. So it’s on to Prosser and Zillah (and, indeed, the general Yakima Valley area) as places where we stamp this week’s Passport to Pleasure—a hedonistic quest for great food and good times for two, from nibbles to naughtiness.

A DELIGHTFUL STAY AT DESERT WIND WINERY

Drive along Route 12 through Prosser and you might notice a Santa Fe-like estate on a bluff on the south side of the road. This is Desert Wind Winery. Exit, as it’s here that you’ll spend your first night.

There are just four rooms at this property, and they’re fabulous. All are well-appointed in Southwestern style. Tonight you’re in the Charbonneau room, which has a comfortable seating area where you can watch television, listen to music on the Bose sound system, read, or simply converse and relax in front of the kiva-style gas fireplace. There’s a huge, tiled shower (just begging for a second showerhead for a shared experience!), which would combine well with a spa treatment that’s available in an adjacent room—if arranged in advance.

Each room has its own private balcony with wide views overlooking the Yakima River, especially compelling as the sun sets over the mountains.

By staying at Desert Wind, you can do wine tasting without worry about driving. There’s a full line of wines (the 2006 Syrah is a favorite), with a generous round of sampling for $5, which is refunded with a wine purchase. (You can also upgrade to a VIP platter with cheese, charcuterie, chocolates, and more.) You get a complimentary bottle of wine in your room with your stay, but during the tasting you can find what you’d like to pair with your dinner, which is on-site at Mojave at Desert Wind.

Mojave offers counter seats overlooking the grill and fryer if you’d like to be close to the cooking action. Like the property, the menu is Southwest-inspired, offering small plates such as empanada brie with jalapeno jello and entrees such as mole-rubbed ribeye. And how about a fiery chocolate crème brulee for dessert?

Don’t worry about getting out for your morning meal, as it’s breakfast in bed when you get your basket of food arrives at your door. Wake up to granola, fruit, cheese, and breads (perhaps a Mexican pastry) along with juice and coffee or tea. For a refreshing start to the day, take breakfast on the balcony in the crisp morning air. Be sure to browse the gift shop before departing for treats to bring home, such as flavored vinegars and specialty chocolates.

TAKE CHARGE OF YOUR HORSE AT CHERRY WOOD BED BREAKFAST AND BARN

The “Barn” part of the name should tip you off that this is not a typical bed and breakfast.

Located in Zillah, the rooms at Cherry Wood Bed Breakfast and Barn are actually teepees on a horse ranch and farm. How romantic is that?

Owner Pepper Fewel calls it “glamping,” as you won’t actually be roughing it in these teepees. Inside are solid floors and comfortable beds, with electric running to the teepees affording light and—perhaps more important—dual-control electric blankets for cool nights. While there are no telephones or televisions, you can surf the Internet using the somewhat sporadic wifi signal.

Staying in a teepee is a special experience, enhanced by any wind or the rare rain that falls in the area. You get a private toilet (alas, a honey bucket) just outside your teepee, with a lighted path guiding the way. There are shared showers just a short walk away, providing a wonderful (and private) opportunity to “skinnydip” in the open air. If the night is cool, you might just want to stay under the warm water instead of trotting back to your teepee. No fear, though, as outside your firepit is a barbeque grill if you want to cook, and a firepit for smore-making and to warm up while under the stars.

You’ll take breakfast inside Fewel’s home. She’s a convivial host, so expect a hearty, home-cooked that might include fruit, an exotic pastry, and a baked egg dish, for example. The food’s better than anything you’ll find in the area, and the atmosphere is warm and friendly.

And since you’re on a horse farm (Fewel takes care of rescue horses), why not make the most of what’s available by going riding? Especially when it’s a winery tour on horseback. Your guided trip will take you through vineyards and orchards to two or more local wineries, including a stop for a leisurely lunch. The ride is a spectacular way to take in the terrain. You’ll go along trails and down country roads, each turn revealing new views of the hilly countryside, all from the vantage point of being high up on a horse. This is a unique experience you’ll never forget.

THE MIRACLE OF A POST-RIDE MASSAGE

After horse-riding, which is rather gentle, take care of any aches and pains, and just freshen up, with a visit to Ummelina Day Spa & Retreat. Ummelina started in Seattle, but the Yakima facility is new and more spacious. The shop has shea butters, bath salts, aromatherapy mists, teas, and other natural products; you can explore as you await your treatment time.

The facility is less “hippie” than Portland’s Dragontree Holistic Day Spa, while being warmer (though less elegant and polished) than Vancouver’s Chi and Willow Stream spas, for example. In this way, Ummelina like a comfortable chair, warm and inviting.

There’s a full slate of treatments on the spa menu, some packages lasting for a full day, but what’s fun is that even a shorter session like a simple massage comes with variety and a chance to unwind. After changing into a robe and capri pants (an interesting twist from conventional spa-ware, and a nod to modesty and comfort in common areas) and having your stuff stored in a garment bag that gets locked away, you’ll start with an aromatic foot soak and a cup of tea of your choosing in the Sanctuary lounge area. Next you head to the Monsoon, a shower with multiple jets from the sides and above that relaxes and replenishes. From there, it’s time for a Celebration massage to relieve stress, tension, and muscle soreness. Afterward it’s back to the Sanctuary to rest for as long as you’d like, completing the journey.

And that’s just a basic treatment. Future visits to Ummelina can include facials, Thai massage, a seaweed pedicure, time in the hydrotherapy underwater massage tub, and much more.

A FEW EATING OPTIONS

Despite the vast amount of quality produce, it remains difficult to find good restaurants in this area, so you’ll need to lower your expectations.

Second Street Grill is an option if you’re in downtown Yakima. It’s a good place to catch the ballgame on the screens while eating pretty standard American fare and some Pacific Rim specialties. Pictured is an ahi tuna burger with wasabi mayonnaise.

El Porton is a little chain (in Zillah, Union Gap, and Yakima) of family-style Mexican restaurants with typical plates featuring large portions. Pictured is “carne en su jugo,” which is flank steak cooked in its own juices, then minced and mixed with whole beans and crispy bacon.

Antojitos Mexicanos is another family-style restaurant, located in Yakima. Many people get chips and choices from a big tray of salsas. Pictured is a pambazo, which is sliced Mexican bread that’s dipped in mild red sauce and filled with bean spread, cabbage, chopped salsa, sour cream, Mexican cheese, and a choice of meat.

Close to Antojitos, while not a restaurant, is a real food find: Johnson Orchards. The orchards were established in 1904, and the current warehouse has been the business site for nearly one hundred years.

Fourth generation farmer Eric Johnson and his wife Jill now run the orchards, primarily growing cherries, apricots, peaches, nectarines, pears, plums, pluots, and apples. You can come to the warehouse (it’s really a friendly farmstand) to buy fruit by the piece, pound, or box—or to do u-pick in season. Don’t hesitate to ask any of the family members or other workers for advice, samples, etc., as they are eager to help and have pride in their products.

With so much product around, the Johnsons decided to open a bake shop on-site to showcase their fruit in the form of cookies, muffins, fresh-baked pies, and more. Hours are limited, so call ahead for availability (or for special orders). Copper pot caramel apple pies are a popular item, and if you’re there during peach season, be sure to grab a peach pie. The natural flavor of the peach shines through, as the pie is refreshingly not too sweet, but simply kissed with a delightful touch of cinnamon. Two of you will find it hard to resist devouring a small pie immediately in your car.

On a personal note, my favorite bite during my recent trip to the Yakima Valley was something the housekeeper brought me at Desert Wind. She learned of my love of menudo, and feeling bad that she couldn’t bring me her home-cooked version (next time!), she drove to the nearby Mexican meat/grocery store Carniceria Los Toreros to get me some, delivering it with fresh tortillas she made minutes before in the kitchen. Delicious! Pictured is that menudo, along with a look at the tripe as sold in that carniceria.

LOOKING FORWARD IN THE YAKIMA VALLEY

Fall is a fabulous time in the Yakima Valley, with many holiday celebrations in the final months of the year. Check the Yakima Valley Visitors & Convention Bureau’s calendar for special events ahead.

Note:

• Photo of Yakima sign courtesy of Flickr member Cave Canem.
• Photos of Desert Wind Winery’s guestroom, tasting room, and daytime balcony view by Lynn Howlett, courtesy of Desert Wind Winery
• Photo by evening balcony view by John McAnulty, courtesy of Desert Wind Winery

The 2011 Champions Series rolled into town last night. As part of the 12-city tour, the city of Seattle got a rare glimpse of live, professional (or former professional) tennis.

Featuring tennis icons like Andre Agassi, Bjorn Borg, and Jimmy Connors (who was playing in competitive tennis for the first time in eleven years), last night’s Champions Series action pitted Michael Chang against Jim Courier in the first match, followed by Pete Sampras against John McEnroe—who was making his tour debut.

Most of the night’s players have spent little time in Seattle, but were glad to bring the game here to build interest in tennis. Courier noted that “Seattle is underserved by the tennis community,” adding that events like this “might inspire a kid to become the next tennis superstar.”

While their games have slowed somewhat, the night offered glimpses into what made these players superstars. Former local Chang beat Courier 6-4, then waited while Sampras outlasted McEnroe by the same score. Chang, who still manages to spout religion in every appearance (when asked about his days in Seattle, he said “I went to church here and I have a lot of people who pray for me here”—an odd response to the question), couldn’t muster enough divine intervention in the final against Sampras, losing by a score of 8-4.

Lifted by his still-strong serve, Sampras has now won four of his five appearances on the tour, giving him the lead in the Champions Series point standings. Play continues tomorrow in Los Angeles, followed by events in Las Vegas, Chicago, St. Louis, and Buffalo.

The tennis is serious, though with many light moments. McEnroe, the old man of the night’s quartet at age 52, playfully flashed signs of confrontation, and was clearly the crowd favorite. Courier also showed a great sense of humor. Meanwhile, Sampras, who spoke of McEnroe’s demeanor as very different than his own (and that’s a huge understatement), managed to make Chang look like quite a personality on the court.

As a food writer, I couldn’t resist asking each player what he desires after a match:

• McEnroe: a beer (or two), and maybe some pizza
• Courier: fruit and energy bars
• Sampras: In-N-Out burger, asking if I knew what that was (I do, and I object to the company’s proselytizing by referencing Bible verses on its wrappers and cups.)

Chang redeemed himself a little with his answer. He told me “there’s a big difference between what I crave and what I can actually have.” Explaining that his mother is from northern China and makes good dumplings and noodles, he said, “I like xiao long bao,” and asked, “Do you know what that is?”

Of course. The look on his face (above) is contemplation after I told him that Din Tai Fung is now open in Bellevue, serving its famous xiao long bao. But given their mediocre quality, seems they’re in need of some divine intervention. Maybe Chang can help make that happen.

Saturday, October 15 (from 1:30 to 3:00pm) will be Sushi Sampling to the Northwest Nikkei Museum. Sponsored by the Japanese Cultural & Community Center of Washington, this free event will feature sushi demonstrations, samplings, and insight into the Japanese food trends from past to present. Takeyuki “Tak” Suetsugu of Bistro Satsuma in Gig Harbor will preside over the sushi-making, and the event is in conjunction with the current Itadakimasu! exhibit which highlights the history of Japanese restaurants and food in Seattle.

Sunday, October 16 marks the start of Seattle Restaurant Week, with over 150 restaurants offering three-course dinners for $28 (excluding beverages, tax, and tip.) Some of the restaurants even offer three-course lunches for $15. Enjoy food from places like Poppy to Portage, and LUC to Lark.

Tuesday, October 18 (6:00 to 9:00pm) is Seattleite and Gilt City’s Fall Comforts food tasting event at the Wing Luke Museum. Artusi, Bastille, Coterie Room, Golden Beetle, Mistral, Poquitos, RN74, Revel, Rover’s, Spur, Staple & Fancy, and Tavern Law will be on hand to serve up savory and sweet bites, along with wine and craft cocktails.

The Northwest Chocolate Festival comes to town on Saturday and Sunday, October 22 and 23. The action-packed schedule includes many concurrent classes, sampling from local, national, and international chocolate makers, and goodies like an Aphrodisiac Room, a Masquerade Ball Party, and a Beer and Wine Garden. There’s also a VIP package that provides admission to additional events.

Chocolate may be a sweet ending for some, but remember that the third annual Lamb Jam is Sunday, October 23. This is one of the best food events of the year (I’ll be one of the judges sequestered to a secret room!), and Sunbreak readers can now enjoy a twenty percent discount off the admission price by using code SEAJAM100 when purchasing tickets here.

If you’re still hungry after all this, note that Seattle Restaurant Week runs for a second straight week (both weeks being Sunday through Thursday).

Enjoy a slow, well-deserved morning with your loved one, lingering over breakfast at Otters Pond Bed and Breakfast, where you stayed for your first overnight. You might be sad to check out of such a restful place, but there’s still a lot to do and see. And eat. Passport to Pleasure—a hedonistic quest for good food and good times—continues with more food finds and romantic discoveries on Orcas Island.

START YOUR DAY WITH CLAY

There are lots of artists on the San Juan Islands, and Orcas is no exception. Pottery is especially popular, and while it’s worth checking out many places, this morning you’re visiting Orcas Island Pottery.

Said to be the oldest pottery in the Pacific Northwest, Orcas Island Pottery is located on West Beach only 3½ miles from Eastsound. The setting is spectacular, as it’s in an area of old growth cedars and Douglas firs, on a 100-foot high bluff overlooking President’s Channel.

Here you’ll find about 15 local potters with exhibit areas of their work scattered about the premises. Take a peek inside the 150-year-old log cabin, and be sure to climb up the treehouse.

As you peruse the pottery, think about people who might like a gift. Or choose a keepsake for yourselves, a reminder of your peaceful stay on the island.

DO GO TO DOE BAY

At one of the far reaches of the island is a place well worth seeing (if not staying during a future visit): Doe Bay Resort & Retreat. There’s a great variety of accommodations available, from beachside camping and yurts to cabins and houses.

Doe Bay Resort & Retreat is all about relaxation. You’ll find a yoga studio, a facility for acupuncture and massage, and clothing-optional soaking tubs (and sauna). This is truly a place to get back in touch with your bodies.

There’s food at the general store, which is part of the National Register of Historic Buildings. But you’re here to try out Doe Bay Café, which just might be the best place to eat on Orcas. The food is that good, prices are reasonable, and the atmosphere is comfortably casual. While gazing at the water, enjoy live music some nights, or interesting selections other times, like the Yonder Mountain String Band covering Pink Floyd’s “Goodbye Blue Sky.”

Fresh produce from the organic garden plays a role in many of the plates. For example, check out this olive oil poached duck egg, served over spicy slow-cooked greens, tomatoes, smoked mushrooms, Anson Mills grits and grana cheese (with upgrade possible to a local egg). Delicious!

CHOCOLATE INTERLUDE

Hopefully you haven’t eaten too much for breakfast and lunch, as there’s a big dinner ahead. And this afternoon, as a break during shopping, you’re making a stop at Kathryn Taylor Chocolates in Eastsound.

Kathryn Taylor Chocolates is a family business named after the daughter of Ted and Susan Aspinall. Ted brings his experience as a long-time chef, while Susan has been an apprentice with chocolatiers in the U.S. and Canada. This is their workshop and café, where they sell and make chocolates from ingredients found at local, organic farms.

Their chocolates are all hand-made. Most distinctive are the bonbons, which are topped with hand-painted tiles and marbled flowers. Your challenge is to figure out which ones you want to eat on-site, knowing you can also take a box home to enjoy later.

It’s easy to be overwhelmed by the selection. Fruits? Nuts? Spirits? How about a sampling of three—along with a dessert (maybe a fresh fruit or frangipane tart)—to go with a flight of four single origin drinking chocolates? Enjoy a seat in the casual café and watch as others struggle with similar choices, knowing that you’re going for gluttony sharing bites and sips with your significant other.

These chocolates are absolutely gorgeous; after all, “people taste with their eyes,” says Susan. And the quality is great. “The key is layered flavors that are balanced,” Ted explains, adding, “They’re not overly sweet, as that would take over the chocolate too much.”

Since you’ll likely struggle with your selection, some favorites include bourbon pecan, blood orange, pink peppered mint, and pistachio fig—with the fig poached in Sauvignon Blanc and Galliano, and the pistachio chopped to make marzipan.

To combat a chocolate coma, continue strolling the shopping area, walk back to the water, or go check in early at your next B&B before dinner.

DOCKING FOR DINNER AT SHIP BAY

Dinner tonight is at another potential place to stay: Inn at Ship Bay. Centered around an 1869 farmhouse in the midst of a fruit orchard, there are 11 rooms, all of which feature balconies, fireplaces, and views of the bay.

Even though you’re not staying here, you’re in for a night of fine dining. Like many you’ve met on this trip, Chef Geddes Martin also does the seasonal menu thing with locally harvested products. As an added bonus, breads and desserts made in-house.

Look for local oysters, clams, and mussels. But note that Martin has a love for mangalitsa pork—try the prosciutto plate!

Salads here are special, such as this beet salad with roasted asparagus, greens, herb goat cheese, toasted almonds and citrus dressing. And to take advantage of the locality of products, don’t overlook the vegetarian option in the entrée section of the menu. If it offers roasted buttercream potatoes and foraged wild mushrooms with cippolini onions, wild leaks, wilted greens, and roast garlic mushroom jus, jump on it. You’ll surely want a spoon for the broth.

Inn at Ship Bay is a scenic spot. Come early and sit by the water, or if the night is warm, the two of you can relax there afterward, watching the sunset.

JUMP INTO BED AT KANGAROO HOUSE

Tonight’s stay is at the Kangaroo House Bed and Breakfast, just north of the Eastsound shops. This five-room inn, built in 1907 as a Craftsman bungalow hotel, has a homey feeling. You can enjoy your comfortable bedroom, or hang out a bit in the spacious living room, where tea and coffee are available.

At some point, you’ll certainly want to walk through the garden to take advantage of the hot tub. There’s a sign-up sheet to ensure your preferred time slot.

Be sure to ask how Kangaroo House got its name. But if you want to really engage your hosts Jill Johnson and Charles Toxey, start talking about food. And following a good night of sleep, you’ll see their food passion at play in your morning breakfast, which they advise you to think of as “a little dinner party.” Expect dishes like fruit with lime and kumquat, blueberry oatmeal crème brulee, and a root vegetable au gratin omelette that’s so good, the recipe is here:

Root Vegetable Au Gratin Omelette

by Charles Toxey, Kangaroo House Bed and Breakfast

Serves 6

Ingredients

• 6 farm fresh eggs, or refrigerated eggs allowed to come to room temperature
• 1/4 cup cream
• 1/2 cup Dubliner, Double Gloucester, or a similar sharp semi-hard cheese, shredded
• 1/8 cup Pecorino/Spanish Manchego shaved or grated (Parmigiano Reggiano may be substituted)
• 1 small red beet – tap root and small hair roots removed
• 1 medium Yukon Gold potato, skin on
• 1 small orange-fleshed sweet potato, skin on
• 1 medium parsnip
• 1/2 small white onion, diced and caramelized
• 1 sprig fresh dill weed, minced
• 1 teaspoon butter
• 1/2 teaspoon olive oil
• 1 oz. each of spinach (~ 10 leaves) and fresh rinsed nettle leaves (~ 20 small leaves), or substitute arugula
• 1 heaping tablespoon oil-cured, mild chiles (i.e., Mama Lil’s goat horn peppers); decrease for hot chiles
• 2-1/4 teaspoons kosher salt
• Fresh ground black pepper to taste

Instructions

1. Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees F.
2. Rinse eggs in their shells with very hot water just prior to using. Note: This is good practice for all egg dishes, promoting sanitation and reducing cooking times.
3. Fully coat sides and bottom of eight-inch ovenproof, non-stick pan (or all-metal au gratin dish) with warmed butter and olive oil. If not using a non-stick dish, use two teaspoons of butter instead of one. Set aside.
4. (Note: For the next steps, resist the urge to slice all your vegetables ahead of time, as they can curl up, making it more difficult to lay out each layer.) Using a mandoline, slice beet into rounds about the thickness of a credit card. Overlap rounds in a spiral toward center of pan until fully covered. Salt with ¼ teaspoon kosher salt. Sprinkle shaved Pecorino. Rinse mandoline and cutting board to keep from staining the next ingredients with beet juice.
5. Increase mandoline blade opening to three times as thick as a credit card and slice potato. Overlap rounds in the same spiral pattern, sprinkle 1/2 teaspoon salt, freshly ground black pepper, and distribute 1/4 cup of Dubliner evenly on top.
6. Decrease mandoline blade opening to two times credit card thickness and slice the sweet potato. Arrange the rounds into the same overlapping spiral and this time only salt it with 1/4 teaspoon salt and sprinkle remaining 1/4 cup of Dubliner.
7. Then, decrease mandoline blade back to one credit card thickness and slice the parsnip. Arrange the rounds once again into a spiral layer, salt with 1/4 teaspoon salt. No cheese on top of this layer. For full spiciness, drizzle a heaping tablespoon of minced oil-cured chiles over the parsnips. For a milder taste, drizzle 1-1/2 teaspoons of the chile-flavored oil, without the chiles.
8. Cover pan with tight-fitting lid, and bake 25 minutes.
9. In medium-sized mixing bowl, whisk eggs, cream, one teaspoon salt, fresh dill, and dash of ground coriander. Set aside.
10. Remove pan from oven and add layer of each of the greens and caramelized onions on top of the layered root vegetables. Let pan cool with lid off for 10 minutes, leaving oven on. Re-cover pan and pop it in oven again until hot and bubbly – around five minutes.  (I call this annealing the crust. All layers of vegetable behave as a unit after this.)
11. Pour egg mixture over top of greens (do not replace lid), and bake 10-12 minutes until set.
12. Remove, let rest for two to three minutes, and nudge sides carefully from pan until omelet slides freely. Using small flexible spatula, slip omelet onto cutting board. Cut into wedges and serve immediately.

You’ll likely take time to chat after breakfast—when Jill and Charles have finished cooking. No rush, as you need to digest knowing you’ll soon be getting a little more food before heading to the ferry. Inquire about your check-out time, and get last tips, if you’d like, about things to do before lunch.

FIRE AND PASSION, BBQ AND PIE

When you’re hungry again, you have two more stops to conclude your hedonistic stay on Orcas.

First up is Fire Smokehouse and Grill. You can sit inside and listen to the likes of the Four Tops and the Beatles, or go outside for a seat on the deck. See if the chef will show you his Weber grill tattoo, which shows his true dedication to Fire.

The long-cooking smoked beef brisket is a good choice, featuring alder-smoked brisket with chipotle mayo and coleslaw on a toasted potato bun. Get a side dish with it, and be sure to experiment with the four hot sauce choices: roasted pineapple habanero, orange chipotle, Texas, and honey bourbon. You’ll soon find yourself with a hankering for a rack of ribs.

Next is pie time, as next door to Fire is Passionate for Pies. A shop for pie? You’ve got to try.

There are savory tarts and “outrageous” pot pies (with organic chicken or beef) as well as pasties (the Jamaican chicken curry sounds promising), but you’re here for the sweet pies. Options range from blackberry to black bottom coconut crème, and Cinderella pumpkin to sour lemon crème. But if you see a sour cherry lattice pie, grab it. The season is short, and it’s deliciously tart. The only thing that can make it better is to “a la mode” it with Lopez Island Creamery. Which is entirely possible, as they also sell the ice cream on-site.

Stuffed, it’s now time to head to the ferry dock to catch your ride home. It’s as relaxing as the voyage you took to get here, as the two of you can sit back, take in another hour of water views, and relish the memories while planning your next trip back to the colorful San Juans.

Let’s start with Orcas Island, the largest and most rugged of the San Juan Islands. So close, and yet such a far away feeling. Once you get on the ferry, your troubles start to fade. And while island life is certainly a bit slower, it doesn’t mean there isn’t excitement for couples to find—even if just sitting and staring at the stunning views of the water. So we sail away to Orcas for a two-part Passport to Pleasure—a hedonistic quest for good food and good times.

EVERYTHING’S COMING UP ROSES

If you’ve taken a morning ferry, you’ve probably arrived hungry. Bypass the shops at Orcas Landing (though stop if you want to arrange a whale-watching tour) and take a short drive to Eastsound (the “city” on the island, with 1,200 people), your base of operation for this two-night trip.

It’s here that you’ll find Roses Bakery Cafe. The store sells a wide variety of products, including cheeses, meat, wine, and chocolates (everything you’d want and need for a romantic picnic at Waterfront Park), as well as all of its baked goods.

But I recommend sitting in the dining room, perhaps even at the counter of the open kitchen, so that you can order a fresh pizza right out of the oven. This is the thin crust variety, and they come with several seasonal combinations of ingredients.

Pictured is springtime’s soppresetta, kale, tomato, and provolone pie. The sandwiches are also good (Roses uses local meats and produce), and you just might get tempted by the sweet treats in the dessert case.

LOPEZ ISLAND AT LILY

If you leave Roses with sweet tooth unscathed (or even if you don’t), take a stroll through the shopping area and make your way to Lily, which serves ice cream from Lopez Island Creamery. This is in the same location as Allium, where you’ll be having dinner later in the day.

At Lily, you can order bento boxes to go, as well as a variety of sandwiches and other snacks. On weekend mornings, this is the place for fresh, warm cinnamon rolls. For now, post-lunch, it’s time for ice cream. Sample away. Flavors are on the subtle side, which will let you really focus on the quality of the cream. There’s really no place to eat in the store, so you can take your ice cream for a little lakeside stroll. Or, walk to the island in the inlet—just be sure to know the tide schedule so you don’t get stranded!

MORAN MISSION

Capitalize on nice weather by checking out Moran State Park. This 5,252-acre park was donated by shipbuilder and Seattle mayor Robert Moran, who started giving land in 1921.

If you’re feeling hardy, there are almost 40 miles of hiking trails to explore, including access to Cascade Falls; its 100-foot drop is the largest in the San Juans. Whether by foot, bike, or car, be sure to go to the top of Mount Constitution (elevation 2,409 feet) to climb the four-story observation tower. On a clear day, you’ll get 360-degree panoramic views of the Olympics, Cascades, Mount Baker, Mount Rainier, and Vancouver Island. Find a cozy place to sit in the area, and the top of you will feel like you’re on top of the world.

When you come back to Earth, how about a stop at Rosario Resort & Spa? This is the site of the Moran Mansion, built in 1906. There’s a lot of history in this building. Tour and take in the Arts and Crafts furnishings, learn about the shipbuilding business in Seattle, and see images of the city before, during, and after the great fire. Check the calendar to see if Christopher Peacock is playing the mansion’s 1,972-pipe Aeolian organ, accompanied by an interesting and informative photographic slideshow.

DINNER COMES ALIVE AT ALLIUM

Allium is Lisa Nakamura’s new baby. Previously at Qube, bin vivant, and The Herbfarm in the Seattle area, she made quite the move in opening Allium in the old Christina’s location in Eastsound.

And what a location it is! There’s a deck overlooking the inlet, and from that vantage point, you’ll find it hard to take your eyes off the view. Enjoy happy hour outside if you’d like, and stay if the night is warm. Otherwise, take a table in the cozy dining room. Peruse the menu, or ask to partake in a tasting menu (inquire about the price so you’re not surprised), which lets you both share small bites of multiple items.

Nakamura’s daily gnocchi (pictured) are currently all the rage, with complementary ingredients that suit the season. These are pillowy and potatoey and delicious. You might also consider the duck breast (also pictured, here with wild rice, shiitake mushrooms, pickled grapes, and orange demi-glace) and the large, caramelized scallops.

An earnest chef churning out quality food with seasonal flair—those are the makings of a nice dinner out.

PONDER YOUR DAY AT OTTERS POND

At the end of a delicious day, you’ll be glad to know your home-away from-home is Otters Pond Bed and Breakfast, where owners Carl and Sue Silvernail will greet you with a warm welcome. This is a contemporary cedar home that’s incredibly clean (there’s a shoes-off policy) and “comfortably elegant.”  (“No frou frou,” the owners point out.)

A beverage will be available in the kitchen, and you’ll certainly want to take up the offer to really warm up in the hot tub. Out on the back deck, the tub has sliding shoji screens to offer privacy. Settle in and it’s just the two off you—along with a squadron of frogs performing a symphony on the pond. Still, it’s relaxing and romantic.

In the morning, you’ll probably hear the call of many birds outside. When you first look out your window, you’ll see why the owners describe the setting as a Monet painting. The property is a protected wetland, and the site of all kinds of birding activities. Ask Carl and Sue if you’d like to know more, perhaps taking a peek through the telescope in the living room or binoculars in your room. Coffee is available from the earliest of hours, and you’ll see your names atop the breakfast menu du jour.

Speaking of which, expect a five-course gourmet breakfast to get you going in the morning. Carl and Sue tag team responsibilities to perfection. Look for unique items like breakfast polenta with jam, pictured. Note that Sue is an avid ice cream maker, so you might get a frozen treat that can give Lopez Island Creamery a run for the money. A delicious way to start a new day on Orcas Island, which you’ll discover in the next report.

There’s also a world of restaurants right outside the door.

If I was visiting Seattle for business, I’d want to stay at Hotel 1000. I love the location, and little things like the free Internet access and VOIP calls make the guestroom a great remote office, or home away from home. But Hotel 1000 isn’t just for out-of-towners. It’s a perfect place for you to enjoy a pleasurable downtown couples’ getaway full of food, fun, and relaxation. And it’s where we stamp this week’s Passport to Pleasure—a hedonistic quest for food and good times.

THE HOTEL

These are no ordinary hotel rooms. There’s a warm feeling upon entering your room, with cherry wood wardrobes and plush velvet pillows part of the sleek décor. You’ll take in the views of Elliott Bay by day, then draw the curtains to take advantage of flexible mood lighting by night.

Sleep promises to be peaceful.

In fact, you might not ever want to leave your room.

What makes Hotel 1000’s rooms extraordinary are the bathrooms.

You’ll be intrigued by the two-person pedestal tub sitting right in the middle of your bathroom. Where’s the plumbing, you wonder? When you’re ready to share a bath (your choice whether or not to draw the blinds to block out the city lights at night), the tub fills with water that pours down from the ceiling.

You’ll be tempted to bring bubble bath.

This will be a magical part of your magical stay.

SPAAHH

As if the bathtub’s not relaxing enough, you can throw on bathrobes and take the elevator down to the spa, known here as “The Spaahh,” for a couples massage. Treat yourself to some pampering, finding peace in this busy stretch of city. Customize your treatment, choosing from Swedish to deep tissue to hot stone massage.

In the two-person treatment room, it’s a special feeling knowing that your special someone is on the table next to you, relishing the relaxation.

THE REST

There’s no need to limit your activities to the room during your getaway. Just off the front lobby, you’ll notice the open fire pit in Studio 1000. It’s the site of many events, from talks to performances to holiday festivities (a special time to stay at Hotel 1000, when they make it snow every evening during the season).

Check out The Golf Club, a virtual reality golf experience (with over 50 famous courses) that can actually help your game—or get you interested in it. With snacks and drinks available, it’s a fun way to play with your partner.

For quieter time and a creative outlet, the Library offers a fireside retreat to do reading, writing, and thinking. And back by The Spaahh is the fitness center, with exercise equipment and free weights to help build muscle and burn the calories you’ll be consuming during your culinary adventures.

DINING IN…

You don’t need to go far for good food, as BOKA Kitchen + Bar is open early for breakfast and until midnight or so for your late-night cravings. Alternatively, you can dine in-room at any time, as the kitchen never closes.

Breakfast and brunch are favorite meals here, but you might also enjoy the $3/$6/$9 happy hour specials, or come for dinner when the dining room is at its sexiest. Lots of cozy, comfortable, and curvy seating, and if the ever-changing colored lights are just a little overdone, they’re still fun. Grab a seat at the bar, and when you’re ready for more, move to a table for a completely different perspective.

Chef Angie Roberts prepares “urban American food” with Pacific Northwest flourishes using as many organic ingredients as possible; look for dishes like sashimi-style geoduck with corn pudding, warm bacon dressing, and bing cherries.

(Pictured is a pork ‘n’ bean duo that Roberts did special one day. On one side of the plate are “sweet and sticky” baby back ribs sitting on jicama slaw; on the other side, braised pork belly with baked Full Circle Farm’s beans. Dividing the two: a stick of watermelon rock candy and a glass of watermelon soda. Fun and delicious!)

…OR OUT THE DOOR

According to Urbanspoon, there are at least 50 coffee shops and restaurants within one-tenth of a mile of the hotel. From Mae Phim to Met Grill, you’re sure to find something of interest.

For breakfast, Belle Pastry offers all kinds of croissants and more, as well as Caffe D’arte coffee. (You might also snag some cookies for an afternoon or evening snack.) Speaking of snacks, Post Alley Pizza is good for a slice (or a whole pie) if you can catch them while they’re open—they’re only open weekdays, and only until 6pm.

You’ve got lots of lunch options here, especially Asian. Mae Phim is a popular place for set price plates ($5.95) of Thai noodles, curries, and more. There’s a branch of Pho Cyclo close by if you prefer your noodles and rice plates to be of the Vietnamese variety. And if you’re craving sushi or another Japanese snack box, Bento Kudasai is a great place for a grab-and-go to bring back to your room.

For a cheap but filling happy hour, head across the street to McCormick & Schmick’s. There are lots of excellent deals here, including a half-pound hamburger (with fries!) for under three bucks. Note that this place can get extremely crowded.

An option for a more upscale burger is Metropolitan Grill, where one with the works is just $6 during happy hour. Note that Met Grill is a classic steakhouse; so expect mahogany and brass, martinis and merlot, white linens and a tuxedo-clad maître D. Among the many choices to consider at this fine dining establishment is the chateaubriand for two ($128 for 26 ounces).

And if you just want a Guinness and grub from an Irish pub, Fado is where you’ll want to go. (Back to the happy hour burger theme, you can get two gourmet mini paddy melts on rye for five dollars.) I’ll always remember this as the place I tried speed dating when that first became the rage; you can go with your lad or lass and laugh at the singles trying to score a connection.

AND, MORE OUT THE DOOR

Hotel 1000’s location is perfect if you want to play tourist in Seattle. SAM is just three blocks away, and if you time your stay with First Thursday, you can drink all that wine at the nearby art openings without concern about driving home. You’re also close to the piers and Pike Place Market, as well as the Smith Tower and the stadiums. In the evening, perhaps take in a show at Benaroya or the Triple Door.

For a show of a different kind, take a peek at Taboo Adult Video. As a sex educator, I can’t help but mention the place, and you can’t help but notice it right next door to the hotel. Okay, it’s far less classy than the hotel, but if looking for a third in the way of a blow-up doll, visual stimulation in the video arcade, or, better, a DVD to bring back to your room (you’ll need your own DVD player), Taboo is geographically convenient and an always-open diversion. If you’re too timid to enter, you can always just check out the crazy window display; should you be brave enough, you just might spend a “happy hour” here.

Note: Hotel photos courtesy of Hotel 1000, BOKA photos courtesy of Rina Jordan, and Metropolitan Grill photo courtesy of Flickr pool’s atsushi.sotah.

Last night, I had a chance to meet Zimmern at Maneki, chosen partly due to its heritage of being over 100 years old. Owner Jean Nakayama consulted with me about the menu and decided to do “neba neba” foods, thinking she’d slime Zimmern. He ate at the bar, with Nakayama playing co-star with her usual grace and gift of gab.

With prime seating in the adjoining tatami room, I watched Zimmern work his way through the gooey menu, tantalized by the textures and talking approvingly about the smells and flavors of the dishes. (“It’s cheesy, but in a good way,” he commented at one point.) The man knows food and appreciates Japanese cuisine.

He also knows the power of social media. Between dishes, he’d whip out his camera phone and quickly post pictures of the food to his Twitter account. And he’s got a great sense of humor. At one point, an older, Japanese customer came by the sushi bar where he was sitting, stopped, and said that he looked like someone she’d seen on the Travel Channel. He asked if it was “that fat guy Zimmern” or “the taller, skinnier Bourdain.” She said the former, but that he couldn’t be Zimmern, as Zimmern was much heavier. (This brought lots of laughs from the crew.)

With no fear of bizarre food, I told Nakayama “I’ll have what he’s having” and indulged in the house-made ika shiokara (fermented squid guts, pictured). I also enjoyed the rare opportunity to try imogara (dried taro stems), which Nakayama brought back from Chiba, Japan. She also served mekabu (the slimy, flowering sprout of kelp—some call it the genitals of kelp with its gooey threads) accompanied by kazunoko konbu (herring roe on kelp), which I’ve savored previously at Shiro’s. The roe is like bubble wrap in the mouth, each bite an explosion full of delicious ocean to swallow.

Motsu ni is a favorite dish I’ve had in Japan, as I’m game for tripe anytime. The meal ended with a neba neba bowl of natto (fermented soybeans), okra, and raw maguro (tuna), and ikura (salmon eggs). Natto is something I eat at home constantly; it’s good for the brain and the rest of the body, and some say the same about the aforementioned nutrition-rich placenta.

Zimmern and I had a chance to chat briefly after the shoot. He was thrilled with his meal at Maneki and all of his experiences so far in Seattle, and was looking forward to digging up some geoduck today. Talk of geoducks and placentas provided the perfect transition to the question this sex educator/food writer asks many food personalities: “What do you consider to be the sexiest food?”

Giving it some thought, Zimmern replied that it’s not a specific item, but food that’s eaten by hand, especially things that are large and layered (physically and with flavor). “Jackfruit’s a good example of something that’s really sexy to eat,” he said, before launching into tales of trips to southeast Asia, Morocco, and, essentially, everywhere else he’s traveled. After all, food takes us places.

Seattle is due to shine on Bizarre Foods sometime in January.

PICK UP PIG FOR A PICNIC

After years of being “sandwich central” in Fremont, wildly popular Paseo finally opened a second location, in Ballard. You’ll have no trouble finding it. If you’re driving north on Seaview, it’s the bright pink shack on the right (east) side of the road. The menu is posted outside, next to the order window, and note that it’s cash only; an arrow will steer you in the direction of the ATM machine at the surf shop next door.

Come here for lunch or to share a sandwich as an afternoon snack. Good luck, though, picking just one of the amazing sandwiches. You can’t go wrong with any of the pork choices, with the Cuban roast (made with pork shoulder) being the most popular. The grilled pork and midnight Cuban press also have strong followings. If you’re a shrimp lover, the grilled prawn sandwich is something special, and comes with garlic tapenade and various spice levels. Vegetarians can enjoy that same tapenade in the tofu delight sandwich, and ultimately you’ll realize that Paseo is all about the caramelized onions—and that you can get an onion obsession sandwich.

All the sandwiches come with those onions, along with cilantro, romaine lettuce, pickled jalapenos, and aioli on a toasted baguette. Don’t count on the bread to hold things together, though. You better get lots of napkins, because tackling this sandwich results in a mess. A deliciously happy mess, but a mess nonetheless. Eating a Paseo sandwich is the equivalent of eating spaghetti on a first date. Just do it, and be yourself!

GO TO GOLDEN GARDENS

There are a few picnic tables at Paseo, but you’re taking your sandwich just up the road to Golden Gardens. Find a table, bring chairs, or throw a blanket on the beach while you enjoy your sandwich along with stunning views of Shilshole Bay and the Olympic Mountains. If you do nothing else all afternoon, this will be a day well-spent.

But, there is more to do. Like Gas Works, this is a perfect place to fly a kite. Or throw a Frisbee to each other. Maybe play volleyball?

If you want to get in/on the water instead of just looking at it, you can sail, kayak, paddleboard, and more.

Bring Fido and you’ll find an active, off-leash dog park. Unleash yourselves and spend the day hiking the trails, fishing off the pier, exploring the wetlands, or—if the weather is warm—lying in the sand. (Who says there’s no beach sand in Seattle?) And as the day is really all about the two of you getting romantic, maybe you can find a secluded spot for some snuggling…

CATCH SOME RAYS AT RAY’S

Back by Paseo on the west side of Seaview is a Ballard institution: Ray’s.

Just as Ballard isn’t just for Scandinavians, Ray’s isn’t just for tourists—though you’re likely to see many. Regardless, sometimes it’s fun to play tourist in your town.

Ray’s actually consists of a couple of places. Ray’s Boathouse is an upmarket restaurant with a formal dining room. Its large windows offer sparkling views of Shilshole Bay, but even better is to go upstairs to the more casual Ray’s Café to try to score a table on the outdoor deck. (Happy hour happens at the indoor bar area, though it’s offered outdoors on Tuesday nights.) Outside, you’ll definitely want sunglasses and maybe a hat (and a cold drink) if that elusive yellow star is shining down at you.

The café has the usual suspects, like clam chowder, crispy calamari, and shrimp cocktail. The smoked salmon skewers with cucumber-sesame relish and fresh pineapple are a good starter. Perhaps the most popular (and tastiest) dish is the sablefish in sake kasu, served with grilled choy sum, jasmine rice, honey soy, and scallion oil.

(At the end of a day like this, you’ll likely know whether you’re more of a Ray’s person or a Paseo person, as these are two very different dining experiences.)

Your biggest decision may be whether to take in the sunset at Ray’s, or to return back to Golden Gardens to enjoy nightfall there. With the sea views on Seaview in Ballard, both choices are winners.

Photo credits:

• Sailboats at “Golden Gardens” by Flickr pool’s prpljoy
• “Midnight Cuban Press Sandwich” by Flickr pool’s Justin.li
• Couple on bench at “Golden Gardens” by Flickr pool’s rhys logan (rhystomahawk.com)
• “View from the deck at Ray’s” by Flickr pool’s cirocco
• “Sablefish” by Jay Friedman