Brave Horse Tavern

When you walk in, you’ll see steel baskets of house-made pretzels. And when you finally find a seat at one of the communal tables or at the bar, you’ll likely be ordering a couple of those twisty delights along with a beer.

These pretzels ($4 apiece) are both salty and malty, and a bit on the soft side. You can enjoy them plain, or choose from the trio of mustards (porter, apricot, and a horseradish-like “super hot” that’s my favorite) you’ll find at your table. If you’re looking for a fancier dip, there’s sour cream and crispy onion ($5), cheddar-pimento spread ($6), and smoked peanut butter and bacon ($6). You can go entrée-like by dipping your pretzels in a lager broth with clams ($10), or even dive into dessert with a Theo chocolate and hazelnut dip ($9).

So what do Brave Horse Tavern’s pretzels teach us about sex?

It’s all about budgeting for pleasure.

If you want a good time, you typically have to pay for it, and this is true in both the culinary and sexual arenas. First and foremost, there are health care costs, such as any relevant gynecological exams, STI checks, and birth/disease control. (Just this week, in a small piece of political good news, the Obama administration ordered that health insurance policies provide birth control and other sexual health services without demand for co-pay or deductible hit.)

To enhance sexual play, or to make condoms work better, you’ll want to buy lubrication.

Then there’s the cost of books for information, lingerie for looks, toys to enhance sexual play, and maybe movies (the recently mentioned Pirates, for example, retails for $49.95) for visual stimulation. Some people I polled factor in costs for grooming, food and drink for foreplay, and even therapy.

(And I’m not even getting into the financial costs of the consequences of unexpected pregnancy and the like.)

There’s limitless potential at unlimited expense for sexual experiences. For example, if you’d like to book a flight to join the mile high club, there are pilots waiting to provide you pleasure. Expect to pay $500-$1,000.

The bottom line is you need to budget for your sexual life. Maybe you don’t need a financial spreadsheet, but just understand the costs. It’s a bang for your buck sort of thing.

And don’t forget to factor in inflation. My Dad still tells me about the time when pushcarts outside of New York City schools like his sold pretzels for a penny or two (with mustard). More than eighty years later, he’d likely be shocked by the prices of Brave Horse Tavern’s pretzels. But budget accordingly, as he taught me, and you can have a good time–plain or fancy.

First published in Seattle Weekly’s Voracious on August 4, 2011.

That’s now possible with the opening of Skillet Street Food’s stationary restaurant in Capitol Hill: Skillet Diner. Even better than a table, you’ll want a seat at the counter in front of Skillet’s huge, open kitchen. Here you can banter with the cooks, watching while they prepare waffles and pork belly and cheesecake in a jar.

If it’s Wednesday night, they’ll likely recommend the pot roast special. This version is one of the best I’ve had, braised in beer and wine, and served with potatoes, celery, and carrots. It’s comfort food raised to the next level.

So what does Skillet Diner’s pot roast teach us about sex?

It’s all about redefining the meat and potatoes.

Check the first few pages of an Internet search of “the meat and potatoes of sex,” and aside from one person who says it’s the emotional connection (as compared to penis size, which she describes as “the cilantro thrown on the side”), the rest of the relevant hits refer to intercourse.

From a heterosexual perspective, that tends to be penile-vaginal intercourse, which I like to shorten to PVI. As a sex educator, I’m always trying to get people away from a PVI perspective, and more generally, away from an exclusively genital focus to sex. It’s easy to be goal-oriented, with socialization (men’s, in particular) that PVI is the best or only type of sex. Good as it can be, PVI can carry more consequences (pregnancy), is generally less pleasurable (for women, and even men–who often report preferring oral or manual stimulation), and, frankly, can be a bit boring as a routine.

So let’s draw inspiration by returning back to Skillet’s menu and looking to diversify our meat and potatoes. Wednesday may be pot roast night, but Friday is for steak frites. Or maybe you want Salisbury steak with mashed potatoes? And why limit yourself to evenings? Some people seek pleasure in the morning; at Skillet, that can be corned beef hash. You can even ask for a hamburger with fries (or upcharge to perfectly decadent poutine) anytime.

See? The variations are seemingly endless. It’s all a matter of how you define your meat and potatoes. The same is true for your sex life. Try mixing it up.

Some days, you just might want to toss aside the meat and potatoes to experiment with salad. Trust me: Skillet’s kale Caesar salad will stimulate your mind, opening it to all kinds of new possibilities…

First published in Seattle Weekly’s Voracious on June 9, 2011.

When I’m not on assignment and can choose a restaurant of my own, I face the same question as everyone else: Where, oh where, to go out to eat?

Here in Seattle, those who know me know I gravitate toward Asian cuisine, which is also what I’m likely preparing if I’m cooking at home. I don’t get bored with it. Like chefs who want a break from all the creamy, complex, and heavy foods, sushi (or, even better, sashimi) would be my first choice—but it’s too expensive (so a rare treat), and I tend to save that appetite for annual visits to Japan.

Chinese food, especially spicy Sichuan, is always a top choice for me. But I’m happy with most any noodle or dumpling, which lands me also in Korean and Vietnamese (and other southeast Asian) restaurants quite a bit. (I would go to more than my two favorite Thai restaurants if I didn’t cook that cuisine at home so often.)

But with quick trips to Chicago, D.C., and Boston these two weeks only allowing me one real meal in each city, I stepped back and thought about how I research restaurants to make the right pick. Urbanspoon and Chowhound are great places to start, and I then utilize any other local resources I can find. When I boil down my world of choices in such cities, I find that it’s offal and other oddities that attract me most. And small plates, so I can sample as much as possible. Such food is often found in gastropubs. (Bonus: A pub means that, as a solo diner, you can comfortably sit at the bar or counter.)

In Seattle, if I meet someone like myself, I typically suggest places like Quinn’s, Spur, Joule, and Harvest Vine for small, interesting bites. And now I’d recommend giving 5 Corner Market Bar & Kitchen a try. It’s located in the old Lombardi’s space in Ballard. Chef Sam Crannell actually worked previously at Quinn’s, and with an extensive beer list, you can expect a great gastropub experience.

5 Corner Market recently welcomed me in for a meaty dinner—from pheasant to foie gras to a rack of ribs. I was quite impressed with the flavors and the quality of the beer pairings.

Here’s the menu:

Smoked king oyster mushroom, sunchoke puree, carrots, paired with Bourgogne des Flanders, Brouwerij Timmermans-John Martin

Pheasant ravioli & chasseur broth, paired with Hennepin Farmhouse Ale, Brewery Ommegang

Oxtail, pommes Robuchon, shaved foie gras torchon, parsley, paired with Damnation, Russian River Brewing

Pork belly, black truffle grits, Mad Hatcher farm egg, BLiS maple vinaigrette, paired with Raison d’Etre, Dogfish Head (see here why this course is so sexy)

South Carolina mustard bbq ribs, bacon potato salad, paired with Grimburgen Dubbel, Brouwerij Alken-Maes

Sticky toffee pudding, caramelized banana Anglaise, smoked sea salt, paired with Choklat (Imperial Stout), Southern Tier Brewing

Note: If you like what you see, a reminder that 5 Corner Market is hosting the next installment of the Sexy Feast dinner series. The Sexy Feast dinner at 5 Corner Market is this Monday, February 21, with space available and reservations required. More information is available here.

Book-wise, I was pleased to be a co-editor/author for the Fearless Critic Seattle Restaurant Guide.

Magazine-wise, I’ve brought my worlds of food and sex together in writing the regular “Hot Plate” feature for Edible Seattle. I’ve also contributed to Northwest Palate magazine, and look for an article I wrote about the Culinary Institute of America’s conference on Japanese food in the January issue of Ibuki magazine.

Blog-wise, I’m playing with the food and sex theme with my “Sexy Feast” feature in Seattle Weekly’s Voracious blog, where I also just debuted a weekly noodle article called “The Mein Man.” I also did a bit of writing for the Serious Eats blog, and joined the team at TheSunbreak.com.

And what an honor it was to contribute to USA Today’s “Great American Bites” series! I made my picks for “great” (not necessarily “best”) ice cream, burgers, and pizza in Washington state.

Ice cream: Here is what I wrote about Mallard Ice Cream (whole article here): With an emphasis on fresh, local and organic, Mallard Ice Cream is a fun hangout in Bellingham (home of Western Washington University) for students and townies alike. Check the online Flav-o-cam for the current menu, with flavors ranging from standards to exotics, including a recent “hot” favorite: apricot/tamarind/cayenne.

Burgers: Here is what I wrote about Pick-Quick Drive In (whole article here): Pick-Quick Drive In in Fife is the place to visit when you want the whole package: cooked-to-order burgers, greasy-in-a-good-way fries and thick milkshakes some made with seasonal fruit. As the name implies, you best order quick to avoid the wrath of those in line behind you. But then you can relax as you enjoy your burger at a picnic table surrounded by beautiful flowers.

Pizza: And here is what I wrote about Serious Pie (whole article here): Serious Pie is a place to rub elbows with fellow Seattle diners while eating artisanal, hand-shaped oblong pies made with local ingredients and cooked in an applewood-burning oven. The guanciale (house-cured Italian bacon) with baby arugula and soft, runny eggs is a favorite. If you want to sample more, like the pumpkin, pork belly and pistachio pie, go during happy hour when mini-pies are only $5 each.

(Funny…USA Today used the photo at the top, but it’s shot with my Panasonic Lumix LX-3, and not with my new Canon DSLR. Proof I still need to practice using the new camera!)

(See my original Serious Pie write-up here.)

Again, these aren’t necessarily the best, but they are great. In fact, one of my New Year resolutions is to use the word “best” less and less frequently. I have favorite dishes and restaurants, but that doesn’t always make them the best–a word which can put down other people’s favorites.

Besides, there will always be other ice cream, burgers, pizzas, and more to explore. Here, for example, is a slice (arugula and egg) from Proletariat Pizza in West Seattle. I like the people and the pies, and would gladly eat here again, though I wouldn’t call Proletariat my favorite. I do appreciate the seasonal ingredients and the use of Shepherd’s Grain flour in the dough they make daily.

Across the street is Full Tilt Ice Cream, a perfect complement to a pizza meal. This is a peppy place, with games galore and spirits high. There are signature root beer (and beer) floats, and the ice cream flavors are always a lot of fun. I enjoyed grapefruit tarragon sorbet last visit.

Regrettably, I’ve not yet made it to Zippy’s Burgers in that same stretch of West Seattle (some people say it’s the “best” burger in the area), but hope to before they’re potentially forced to move. So, how about a hot dog instead? Po Dog gets creative with the weiners. You can customize your own, or go with one of their specialties, like the Wasabi Egg Roll Dog (wrapped in wonton paper & deep fried, then topped with homemade wasabi aioli) or the Deep Fried Danger Dog (wrapped in pepper bacon & deep fried, with sauteed onions and homemade spicy chili sauce). Here you see a special mac and Tillamook cheese dog.

So many in Seattle are atwitter with

The contest is brilliant on many levels. First, the clue-giving is a fantastic use of social media. Second, it’s intellectually stimulating, as the answers often emerge from riddles, plays-on-words, etc. Related to that, the contest connects Canlis and all the contestants (and that’s anyone) to Seattle, teaching a lot about regional history in the process. And finally, it’s hip, bringing a new generation of fans into the Canlis fold.

For those not fortunate enough to find a menu, I always say that you can enjoy the splendor of Canlis by enjoying a bite (maybe teriyaki, or dessert and a drink?) in the bar area. Better yet, instead of a $2.75 salmon steak or $3.85 filet mignon from that 1950s menu, see how Canlis has changed by checking out the chef’s tasting menu. Here’s what Jason Franey is serving up this fall:

Amuse Bouche: Sunchoke soup and white truffle ice cream (this connected to the amazing white truffle menu that I enjoyed the same night)

A’u Lepe Tartare en Roulade: Sushi-grade Hawaiian sailfish with endive, apple, pomegranate and steelhead roe (so texturally interesting, and one of my favorite courses of the night, with the endive wrapped around the sailfish, and the roe adding its bursts of flavor)

Of Earth & Ocean: Braised octopus, calamari, and Blue Hawaiian prawn with mango, green papaya, avocado and lime (my “Sexy Feast” dish of the night, with more description here)

Oxtail Ravioli: Tender, hand-formed ravioli with carrots, bone marrow and veal consommé (the broth was captivating)

Rack of Venison: Dry-aged and encrusted with juniper berry, served with Saskatoon berry and Manjari chocolate (hearty and earthy)

Pear sorbet: parsnip and vanilla purée, pumpernickel streusel and preserved Meyer lemon (I loved the savory aspect of the purée, as well as the unique streusel)

The menu specified one dessert, but my table was site of a parade of treats:

Greens of pistachio and mint…

A bunch of bananas…

That last one was my favorite: a crème fraiche parfait. With all its savory elements (why don’t more desserts incorporate savory elements?), it reminded me of the fabulous desserts I ate at Portland’s Fenouil last summer. (Pastry chef Kristen Murray has since moved to Paley’s Place.) Just some of the elements: the tube of parfait with wasabi and grapefruit glass on top, candied almonds, olives, fresh grapefruit and grapefruit gel, celery root and cream, candied grapefruit peel in simple syrup, and fresh shiso.

Like my whole meal at Canlis, I found this dessert to be creative, playful, sophisticated, thought-provoking–and absolutely delicious.

First published on TheSunbreak.com on November 17, 2010.

Yes, the menu is written up on blackboards. On those blackboards, I liked the humor with which the required health department warning is delivered: “Raw or undercooked food may make you sick. Or even kill you. But so could crossing the street.” What I really liked, though, was the chance to do a tasting menu, sort of like an American omakase. You name your price, and Wiegner sends out dishes of his choosing. It’s a great value and a chance for variety; $30 buys you a feast of small plates. Figure on $5 per plate, with one plate likely to be something not found on the menu.

Note that the menu is seasonal and always subject to change. Some of the dishes I sampled recently are no longer available.

But given the consistency of the quality, that’s okay, as you’ll find new favorites. I liked everything I tasted, appreciating some bold flavors and some tastes and techniques from around the world. My only minor gripe is that I felt a bit bloated afterward; given the richness of the dishes, I think Wiegner can back off the fat just a little. (I’ve recommended Blackboard Bistro to others, who raved about their meals but had this same issue.)

My dishes:

Tuna tartare with beets and ginger

Warm goat cheese, frisée, and chanterelle salad with red wine butter sauce

Sautéed scallop with truffled “potato” risotto and baby leeks

Trout, fried green tomatoes, sweet corn, and green tomato chutney

Chicken and wild mushroom pie

Brisket slider with jus, bleu cheese, and shallot rings (See a sexy perspective on this dish here.)

Chocolate and caramel pie with sea salt and crème fraiche ice cream

I especially enjoyed the addition of beets to what is usually a one-dimensional tuna tartare, with the ginger being a refreshing accompaniment. The trout dish offered a nice balance of the fried and fresh, while the jus made the brisket slider a fabulous French dip-like experience.

Wiegner likes to think of his place as an “American bistro.” It’s certainly set up to be a popular neighborhood joint, but based on my experience, Blackboard Bistro is worthy of being a destination restaurant.

First published on TheSunbreak.com on October 8, 2010.

When I first opened Toulouse’s menu, it seemed like there were 125,000 items from which to choose. I’m pro-choice, but this was way overwhelming.

Luckily, our group consisted of four hungry diners, so we were able to order a mini amount of the menu items. And you’ve got to love any menu that starts with a section called “Foie Gras, Tartares, and other Curiosities…” (I also love the very brief “Tonight’s ‘Token’ Meatless Entree” section!)

Wanting to sample all things Cajun, Creole and beyond, we got vast amounts of food, which came fast and furious at times. (The low lighting conditions made shooting photos challenging, but check out the gallery below.) The charcuterie was good, all-in-all, and I liked the spicy beef tartare. Oysters were clean and crisp. And salads were nicely dressed.

Louisiana blue crab over fried green tomatoes with tarragon-chive ravigote

Perhaps the highlight of the meal was Toulouse’s version of Galatoire’s “Crab Maison.” The fried green tomatoes were perfectly cooked, and topped with Louisiana blue crab with tarragon-chive ravigote. Exquisite.

Jambalaya and crawfish etouffee were must-orders. Rich-tasting, but the dishes seemed to suffer a bit by sitting too long in the kitchen. The crispy fried duck confit (over red beans and andouille “cassoulet”) was a hit with some at the table, but dryer than I like. Sides were smashing, including oh-so-creamy corn grits and corn of a different variety – with tasso macque choux.

After all that, we still managed to find room for dessert. The favorite was white chocolate bread pudding (with sauternes custard, bourbon-vanilla zabaglione, and vanilla bean ice cream), with the least favorite being the highly anticipated beignets. I’ve had crispier beignets elsewhere, and we all commented that we would have preferred chocolate dipping sauce instead of the murky-colored chicory anglaise.

I wonder if the massive menu, while certainly impressive, could be creating some problems in the kitchen. As much as it makes ordering a challenge, from the kitchen side I’d think it might make more sense to scale back and try to execute fewer dishes to further perfection.

"Eggs Hussarde" with Snake River Farms ham and veal shallot pan sauce

Still, it’s a little hard to complain when so many choices await, and the same holds true for breakfast – which may be the best bargain in town at five dollars (for almost all items) if you go from 9 to 11 weekdays until the end of January. From scrambles to sweets, there’s so much to sample. Of the seven eggs benedict choices, the bottom one caught my eye and captured my heart: “Eggs Hussarde” with Snake River Farms ham and veal shallot pan sauce. I essentially licked the plate clean, as the rich sauce was the perfect counterpoint to the lemon hollandaise. People talk about Peso’s as an ideal breakfast spot, but a new favorite is emerging right next door.

Breakfast and lunch afford a daylight opportunity to see all those tiles, as well as the other intricate details that add to the spectacle of Toulouse. The setting is especially entrancing in the evening – though I’d hate to be the person who has to light the 125,000 candles each night.

Fonté is the fairly new coffee shop (their first flagship retail store) in The Four Seasons, which also happens to home to the 2009 Dish-Off winner. Each time I visit this micro coffee roaster, I feel like I get a coffee education. Fonté serves premium, fresh, roast-to-order coffees made from meticulously sourced beans, based on the varietal character unique to specific regions around the world, which are then combined to create one-of-a-kind blends. You can sample Fonté’s “Cup of the Day,” or even try flights to compare coffee based on origin, brewing style or body, acidity and aroma.

Gastrolust headquarters was a recent victim of a roof leak, forcing me to flee and live life downtown at different intervals. I found Fonté to be the right place at the right time for a few meals. And why not? Chef Jason Wilson (who happens to be the 2008 Dish-Off champion) developed the menu, so that’s a sure sign that the food here is more than an afterthought. In fact, his family’s farm provides the eggs in my favorite breakfast (which is served all day!) dish: bacon and Vashon Island eggs on ciabatta with farmstead cheese and caramelized onions.

The sandwiches, available anytime, are also a nice option. (I especially recommend the black garlic chicken salad.) And while there are many small nibbles available at happy hour pricing, I quite like the pappardelle with lamb ragu, mint and pecorino as part of the makings of a hearty evening meal. Note that the menu offerings are subject to change, according to season.

Lest you think Fonté is only a coffee shop, there’s also a good wine and beer list available – and it’s color-coded to make perfect pairings with the food.

The interior is smart and comfortable (I love the swivel chairs), and while a window seat means watching a wide variety of people waiting for the bus, stepping outside affords the opportunity to check out the latest quips on the Lusty Lady marquees.

Step #1 of the “Build Your Own Burger” scorecard at The Counter has a vegetarian option, but I was there for the beef. Just a one-third pounder, thanks, though there are 2/3 and full-pound options available for those seeking a beefier blast.

The next four steps involve choosing cheese, toppings (you can choose four basic toppings and add more, or even premium toppings, for an additional charge), sauce, and bun (choice of a regular hamburger bun, honey wheat bun, or an English muffin), so there are lots of decisions to be made. The Counter calculates that there are over 312, 120 burger permutations, so they offer a handful of signature burgers; my overwhelmed dining companion went “Old-School,” which offers Tillamook cheddar cheese, lettuce, tomato, onion, pickle and red relish. (She added bacon to all this.) I, on the other hand, wanted to play with options, and selected japapeno jack cheese, bermuda red onion, roasted chiles, fried egg, and homemade guacamole (the last two are premium toppings) along with spicy sour cream (as my sauce, as I didn’t think ginger soy glaze, peppercorn steak sauce, sun-dried tomato vinaigrette, or most of the others work match my Mexican-style choices) on a regular bun.

The beef is from Meyer Company Ranch, and is hormone and antibiotic-free. Not bad for a chain restaurant, right? And might I mention that it was cooked to perfection? My burger was fun, but a bit much; it was fun to build my own burger, but the more basic, Old-School burger would have suited me just fine. Add to this a sampling of starters (French fries, sweet potato fries, and crispy onion rings with a variety of sauces, as well as some interesting fried dill pickle chips) and a huge shake (I built my own: chocolate and peanut butter – though I’d recommend chocolate and banana as a less sweet option), and I was sufficiently stuffed.

Expect to push $20 per person for such a meal (the burger is $8.25), and you’re at the same price point as another acclaimed Ballard burger joint. But while I generally dislike chains, The Counter offers friendlier service, ample clean space, and those 312,120+ options. No wonder I saw lots of smiles from customers aged 2-92 as they were biting into their burgers.

This is a issue worthy of its own posting. The truth, I believe, is somewhere in the middle. That said, I think there’s extra pressure on chefs and servers to get it right when they know a reviewer is in the restaurant.

Which is why I was surprised by my experience at a media dinner at Ventana. A small group of food writers was about the only party that evening, and yet both the service and food were inconsistent. The servers were warm and friendly, but stiff and sometimes forgetful with their delivery, and on a few occasions lacking in information about the food they were serving. (One can argue that new restaurants have kinks to work out; on the other hand, perhaps restaurants shouldn’t open until they’ve worked out the kinks – or at least not host media before then.)

A duck and a fish tell the tale of the restaurant on this particular night. Lacquered duck breast was delightful, with just the right amount of fat on each slice. I especially liked that it was served with duck jus – this in contrast to the New York strip with foie jus. If I want foie, just give me a lobe of foie gras. The same for truffles. I’m tired of chefs hiding great ingredients in sauces, oils, etc. where they get lost and sometimes make me question, “Is it really in there?” And on the topic of trendy, I liked this duck so much better than the duck confit that’s all the rage these days. My new saying: Pardon me, but enough with the confit.

As much as I liked the duck, I really disliked the halibut. It’s no secret that I think halibut is boring and over-served in Seattle. Therefore, I always roll my eyes when I see it on a menu, but what’s worse is when it’s overcooked and dry. This was a media dinner, and there was no reason to not get the halibut right. (To be sure, I sampled the fish from two other plates, and both were also dry.) Overcooking made a bland dish even more unbearable – one that couldn’t be rescued by the nicoise salt from the much-heralded Secret Stash Sea Salts routinely used at this restaurant, as Chef Joseph Conrad is a co-owner of the company.

The rest of the dishes were okay. Not bad, but nothing special. Hence the challenge. It takes a lot of guts to open a new restaurant in this economy. Ventana has a lot of seats to fill. The windows are wonderful, but diners will eventually be looking toward the service and the food for their fulfillment, and Ventana will have to step up to meet that challenge.