Delicatus Delivers Diverse Sandwiches and More in Pioneer Square

Best sandwich of the visit was The Rebel: hot pastrami with white cheddar, jalapeno-lime aioli, picked red onions, jalapenos, and cilantro on a 10" Italian roll (half sandwich shown), served here with potato salad and pickles

Best sandwich of the visit was The Rebel: hot pastrami with white cheddar, jalapeno-lime aioli, picked red onions, jalapenos, and cilantro on a 10″ Italian roll (half sandwich shown), served here with potato salad and pickles

In addition to its German association with delicatessen, the word “delicatus” has Latin meaning of alluring and charming and “that which gives pleasure.” It also means voluptuous. Hang out at Delicatus in Seattle’s Pioneer Square enjoying the sensual sandwiches, and you too may become more curvaceous alluring.

While some sandwich shops specialize in, say, just three sandwiches, Delicatus greets you with three towering chalkboards chock-full of sandwich choices. The left and right boards are loaded with the “traditionalists” and “progressives,” while the middle goes even further with a handful of “extremists.” Ordering might take time as you contemplate the interesting ingredient combinations, Wooden Table meats, and thoughtful bread choices. Note the variety of aiolis and the number of peppers that spice up many of the sandwiches.

Lots of sandwiches

Lots of sandwiches

Inside Delicatus

Inside Delicatus

A closer look at that important quote above the counter

A closer look at that important quote above the counter

The friendly staff will help you with your sandwich selection, which come with chips by default, though I recommend an upgrade to the German-style potato salad (delightfully spiked with mustard seeds) for less than a dollar. Save room for a corn flake cookie. This thin guy is easy to overlook, but has a captivatingly crispy texture and just the right levels of chocolate and salt.

Delicatus gives you a large number of sandwich choices, as well as a large number of seating options. You can sit out on the sidewalk, in the sun-filled window, at the counter, in the back dining room, or upstairs in the mezzanine.

The Seattle Cure: cured albacore tuna bresaola, salmon lox, lemon-caper aioli, shaved red onions, sweet peppers, and field greens on a toasted ciabatta roll (the lox flavor prevails), served with pasta salad with asparagus

The Seattle Cure: cured albacore tuna bresaola, salmon lox, lemon-caper aioli, shaved red onions, sweet peppers, and field greens on a toasted ciabatta roll (the lox flavor prevails), served with pasta salad with asparagus

Pavo Diablo: hickory-smoked turkey, sliced avocado, spinach, havarti, roasted poblano peppers, spicy chipotle aioli, and cilantro on sourdough bread (a "soft and comforting" sandwich that wasn't really spicy), served with a nice house salad

Pavo Diablo: hickory-smoked turkey, sliced avocado, spinach, havarti, roasted poblano peppers, spicy chipotle aioli, and cilantro on sourdough bread (a “soft and comforting” half sandwich that wasn’t really spicy), served with a nice house salad

Fists of Fury: tender pulled pork, sliced jalapenos, carrots, cucumbers, shaved cabbage, tobiko caviar (!), wasabi aioli, and cilantro on a toasted Italian roll (half sandwich pictured, like a banh mi), served with potato chips

Fists of Fury: tender pulled pork, sliced jalapenos, carrots, cucumbers, shaved cabbage, tobiko caviar (!), wasabi aioli, and cilantro on a toasted Italian roll (half sandwich pictured, like a banh mi), served with potato chips

Cheesecake with the corn flake cookie in the background

Cheesecake with the corn flake cookie in the background

But it’s not just sandwiches. Non-sandwich eaters will find a few brunch options on the weekends. (I saw some terrific-looking challah French toast paired with bacon—or is that a sort of deconstructed sandwich?) Plus, dinner is served weekdays with focus on a few classic preparations. (The shepherd’s pie looks especially intriguing.) There’s also a little bar, which is the perfect place to enjoy happy hour, perhaps with a sausage plate. Or take home the makings of a charcuterie plate (some meats are made in-house, while others are sourced from fine local to international artisans) along with a bottle of wine.

As for that wine, it comes from just two blocks south at The Kitchen by Delicatus. Consider this the creative space of the Delicatus team. Here you’ll find Sous Sol Winery and a 1,500 square foot private event space, which at times plays host to guest chef/pop-up dinners. It’s also the site of a regular dinner series by Delicatus’ own staff. Much like the sandwiches, these are casual and playful affairs, with slightly elevated but not stuffy presentations and service.

Operating owner Derek Shankland told me that Kitchen evolved “as a creative and experimental center that seeks to celebrate our industry while bringing our community together for many diverse and unique food and beverage experiences.” A sneak peek at the menu for the May 16 Slovenian dinner shows Triglav mushroom soup, lamb loin with cherry knedle, and flancati filled with rhubarb and topped with fresh cream cheese. On May 30, Delicatus’ chef Aaron Willis teams with Lost Angeles’ Barolo Joe team for a Northwest Heritage dinner featuring courses that range from smoked venison agnolotti with Shaanxi-style shaved noodles (two noodles in one dish?) to Korean bbq to deconstructed tiramisu. Diverse and unique indeed.

I was invited to attend the recent “Cold Water Excursion” dinner, which featured the following four seafood courses (plus dessert):

Char-grilled octopus salad with baby arugula, Calabrian peppers, Cerignola olive relish, rosemary cracker, Alhema de Queiles organic arbequina oil, and aged sherry vinegar

Char-grilled octopus salad with baby arugula, Calabrian peppers, Cerignola olive relish, rosemary cracker, Alhema de Queiles organic arbequina oil, and aged sherry vinegar

White shrimp bisque with chili oil-poached shrimp, served with basil pistou (and bread)

White shrimp bisque with chili oil-poached shrimp, served with basil pistou (and bread)

Semolina-dusted New England scallops with Gothberg Farms chevre gnudi, micro greens, and salmon roe (favorite dish of the night), served with creamy morel buttered English peas with thyme

Semolina-dusted New England scallops with Gothberg Farms chevre gnudi, micro greens, and salmon roe (favorite dish of the night), served with creamy morel buttered English peas with thyme

Seared Alaskan king salmon with asparagus and tomato salad, pancetta lardons, fried rosemary, Bormane Rivera Italian evoo, and 25-year Oro di Reggio Emilia balsamic vinegar (served with pecorino polenta)

Seared Alaskan king salmon with asparagus and tomato salad, pancetta lardons, fried rosemary, Bormane Rivera Italian evoo, and 25-year Oro di Reggio Emilia balsamic vinegar, served with pecorino polenta

Inside The Kitchen by Delicatus (this photo courtesy of Derek Shankland)

Inside The Kitchen by Delicatus (this photo courtesy of Derek Shankland)

Delicatus on Urbanspoon

The Kitchen by Delicatus on Urbanspoon

Tags:

#Delicatus
,

No comments yet.

Leave a Reply