Semiahmoo Offers Surprisingly Delicious Food in Spitting Distance from Canada

The resort, situated on Semiahmoo Spit

The resort, situated on Semiahmoo Spit

I’ve always loved to stare at maps. As a kid, they took me in my mind to the greatest of places—many of which were dreamy “end of the road” locations. As an adult, I’ve turned some of those dreams into realities, traveling to Tofino (CN) to experience the storms, Tromsø (NO) to see the northern lights, and Dunedin (NZ) to check out the world’s only mainland albatross colony.

Here at home, Point Roberts has always intrigued me, as I’m tickled by the idea of driving through Canada to get back into the continental United States. Unfortunately, there isn’t anything special to do in Point Roberts. But my eyes opened last year when I learned about a destination-worthy resort on the nearby Semiahmoo Spit, which wraps around Drayton Harbor by Blaine and is in spitting distance of the Canadian border.

Allow me to introduce you to Semiahmoo Resort, Golf, & Spa.

A closer look at Semiahmoo Resort

A closer look at Semiahmoo Resort (photo by Jeff Caven)

I met the crew from Semiahmoo (start of a Seussian rhyme?) when they came to last year’s TomatoFare event at Cedarbrook Lodge—a sister property that’s part of the Coastal Hotel Group. Unknowns in a group of chefs I know and admire, culinary director Eric Truglas and chef de cuisine Martin Woods surprised and impressed me most with their creations, including a delicious tomato-based push-pop. “Come and check us out,” they admonished. Recently, I finally found time, and they were generous in hosting me for an overnight stay.

Semiahmoo is at the site of an Alaska Packers’ Association cannery that processed salmon for nearly 80 years. (One of the remaining structures houses the bakery.) In fact, one of the resort’s restaurants is the casual Packers Oyster Bar, but my dinner would be at the (also casual) Pierside Kitchen, where big windows afford views of the water. You can take in that view and more at my preferred seating area: the chef’s counter. While the main kitchen is tucked away, here you can watch the pizzetta-making, see the pastry chef in action, and partake in banter with the staff as they pick up plates to take to the dining room.

Dinner at the chef's counter

Dinner at the chef’s counter

Woods put together an impressive degustation menu that demonstrated Semiahmoo’s use of local products while showcasing versatility of cooking techniques and expertise in the kitchen. Chili-lemongrass spot prawns shined with Asian flavors, earthy ingredients added pizzazz to silky pappardelle pasta, and a duck breast dish wowed with a bold brodo. (See photos of the complete meal at the end of this article.)

Fortunately for a meal that big, the resort offers numerous ways to burn off calories. I’m struck by the rare availability of indoor tennis and racquetball courts, and there’s also an indoor running track that circles a large fitness room full of exercise equipment. For those who want to do their moving outdoors, you’ll find beach volleyball, hiking trails, and kayak rentals readily available. Me: I was content to relax in my comfortable room, watching the scene from my balcony before getting a good night of sleep ahead of breakfast the next morning, which held promise of a mysterious peanut butter and cheddar cheese omelet.

Chef’s Trio breakfast: mini peanut butter and cheddar omelet, mini eggs benedict, and mini French toast

Chef’s Trio breakfast: mini peanut butter and cheddar omelet, mini eggs benedict, and mini French toast

Semiahmoo has undergone recent renovations, with more work to follow. (With a goal of sustainability and good stewardship, it’s easy to miss touches like carpeting made from fishing nets.) If there’s one glitch, it’s technology. Seemingly “trapped” between Canada and the United States, cell phone coverage can be spotty. Worse, wifi didn’t work for me, despite varying advice from several staff members. Hopefully these issues will get resolved before too long.

After all, I’d look forward to a return to Semiahmoo in warmer weather. It’s then that I’d especially enjoy walking along the water by day and sitting at a fire pit (there’s s’more-making year-round) by night. Summer also means that the historic Plover ferry operates weekends, which means fun and easy rides between the spit and the town of Blaine. And given the quality of the food I’ve enjoyed from the chefs, I’ll bet the summer barbecues and clambakes make the getaway to Semiahmoo well worth the drive from Seattle.

Citrus-cured salmon with pickled radish, cilantro emulsion, and sturgeon caviar

Citrus-cured salmon with pickled radish, cilantro emulsion, and sturgeon caviar

Chili-lemongrass spot prawns with cara cara orange, basil, and roe

Chili-lemongrass spot prawns with cara cara orange, basil, and roe

Pappardelle pasta with white truffle cream, grana padana, and shaved truffle

Pappardelle pasta with white truffle cream, grana padana, and shaved truffle

Intermezzo: blackberry sorbet

Intermezzo: blackberry sorbet

Maple Leaf Farms duck breast with yellowfoot chanterelles, pearl onion brulee, and soy-duck brodo

Maple Leaf Farms duck breast with yellowfoot chanterelles, pearl onion brulee, and soy-duck brodo

Double R Ranch filet with roasted local vegetables, potato gratin, and bordelaise sauce

Double R Ranch filet with roasted local vegetables and bordelaise

Passion fruit mousse with macadamia nut shortbread and rose-champagne sorbet

Passion fruit mousse with macadamia nut shortbread and rose-champagne sorbet

A look at the Pierside Kitchen

A look at the Pierside Kitchen (photo by Jeff Caven)

Guest room at Semiahmoo

Guest room at Semiahmoo

(Note: Non-food photos courtesy of Semiahmoo Resort, Golf, & Spa.)

Pierside Kitchen on Urbanspoon

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