Regarding Ethan Stowell’s new “mkt.” restaurant, let me tell you: Its name is small, its space is small, its menu is small, and its neighborhood is small. Fortunately, small is sometimes good.
So let me try to keep this report small.
“mkt.” is pronounced “market,” and stands for Meridian, Keystone, and Tangletown. When I send people to Kisaku for sushi and tell them it’s in Tangletown, I get blank stares, as few know the small neighborhood. This restaurant will help put Tangletown (southeast Green Lake?) more on the map.
It’s a jewel-box of a restaurant, a 28-seater so small that staff needs to go outside to get supplies from the walk-in. Dark and intimate, you feel like you’re right in the kitchen with the smells and the sights. Chefs Joe Ritchie and Monica Dimas seem to like it this way, as they’re able to connect with the customers.
The menu they’re making is rather concise, with five each of snacks, fish, meat, and vegetables — plus a little dessert. With just one pasta dish, this is quite the contrast to Stowell’s other restaurants. During a recent media preview, I enjoyed several meaty plates (including rabbit, pork, and lamb) with tasty sides and snacks. My short summary: Consistent with Stowell’s other restaurants, the food is very good.
Read on for a little look at what’s happening inside the new “mkt.” restaurant.
Lemon thyme zucchini fritters with herb pesto
Pumpernickel with cured salmon and dill crème fraîche
Grilled and marinated green beans with sea salt and lemon (my favorite snack)
Dungeness crab salad with tart apple, tarragon, and endive
Roasted porcini-ricotta ravioli with mushroom sauce, sweet marjoram, and shaved parmesan
Grilled rabbit with frisee-bacon salad, savory, and juniper
Grilled pork tenderloin with hazelnut-olive pesto, mustard seed, and red wine quince
Grilled lamb tongue with baby beets, horseradish, and grilled bread (my favorite dish of the night)
Dinah’s cheese with walnuts and tomato-honey preserve
A look inside the restaurant and the kitchen action