At first glance, Carnivore’s Hash at Hunger in Seattle looks little like a dish for carnivores, and far from a hangover helper. Staring at a layer of lettuce, I second-guessed whether I should have gone right for the self-proclaimed “Hangover Breakfast” ($14) of Moroccan spiced fries, sunny up eggs, gravy, and cheese sauce. (This is an even better deal during the “Hangover Hour” of 1 to 2 p.m., when the Hangover Breakfast is half-price, and $5 gets you a bloody Mary, a mimosa, or a beer and a shot.)
Still, I persevered with the hash. Sweep aside the greens, and you get to the good stuff below. Yes, there are potatoes, but behold a bit of a meat extravaganza, with braised wild boar, house-made sausage, and bacon strewn throughout the square bowl. Mushrooms and onions offer a vegetal break, and there’s a gooey poached egg to make it all the richer.
I like this dish. It’s porky and earthy and fatty enough, making me reach for those brushed-aside lettuce leaves for balance. Unfortunately the serving size is rather small, and the fun of comparing the flavor of the boar to the bacon, for example, dissipates quickly as the meat disappears before your eyes. It would take two portions to help with a hangover. Eating one, I left the restaurant still feeling, ironically enough, hunger.
(Originally published at Serious Eats on November 3.)