I’m ready to make the declaration: Trellis is one of my favorite restaurants in the area – and is well worth the drive from Seattle.
I’ve liked this farm-to-table restaurant, located at the Heathman Hotel in Kirkland, for a long time. Chef Brian Scheehser maintains a farm just a few miles from the restaurant, so you’ll want to pay extra attention to nearly all the fruits and vegetables mentioned on the menu. Produce is not an afterthought in Scheehser’s kitchen.
One recent evening, I enjoyed the veal osso bucco, a hearty portion of tender meat – and whatever I could manage to get out of the center of the large bone. (Ask for a few thin slices of bread on which to spread the marrow.) The roasted onions and charred tomatoes added smokiness and brightness to the dish.
Even better was the striped bass with lobster jus, which my dining companion proclaimed the best non-sushi fish dish she’d ever eaten. (That’s quite a compliment coming from her.) The fish was perfectly seared and cooked, and the broth that Scheehser brought to the table to pour over the fish was oceany yet delicate. As much as I enjoyed the squash soup I ordered, I wanted to tip the bowl of lobster broth to my mouth – but my companion beat me to it.
Well, actually, even better than these two tremendous entrees and the rest of the dinner at Trellis (including some superb wine pairings, and some intriguing non-alcoholic drinks as well) was knowing that we could retreat to our room in the hotel after the meal. That’s where we’d spend the night and start the next day with breakfast in bed, highlighted by a plate of corned beef hash (with poached eggs and hollandaise sauce) and a side of bread with orange-tomato marmalade – which made me again think of the magic of Scheehser’s garden.
And for all that, and previous experiences, I’m pleased to add Trellis to my list (right side of the blog) of favorite local restaurants.