Harsh words, but that’s how two of my food-writing friends described what they ate at Old School Frozen Custard, which just opened on Capitol Hill.
Good timing on the opening, as the weather’s been warm and sunny—which puts so many in the mood for a cold, sweet treat. But what will the demand be like after the summer, I wonder? In my former state of Vermont, almost all of the creemee stands would close once foliage season ended.
In a city that’s embracing frozen desserts like ice cream and gelato, custard’s got a chance. Smoothness and creaminess are part of its appeal. But it also needs to taste good. Comparing the standards at Old School, the vanilla is better than the chocolate, as the egg yolk shines through, adding its richness. But both pale in comparison to what I’ve had in other parts of the country, particularly that dairy-loving state of Wisconsin, where Kopp’s is my cream of the crop. So light, creamy, and flavorful—with a very chocolately chocolate.
Even the Culver’s chain, based in Wisconsin, offers a scoop that bests Old School’s. And that always comes after a filling ButterBurger and a side of crinkle-cut fries. Both of which, incidentally, are about the same quality as McDonald’s.