Barolo’s Branzino Is a Beautiful Thing

One of the downsides of being a restaurant/food reviewer/blogger/writer (whatever you call this!) is that when there’s a night off from a planned meal out, I usually want to cook something at home – whether simple or complex. This probably sounds like a strange complaint to some, but I rarely choose my own restaurant and eat there “critique-free,” and when I do, I favor little Asian restaurants.

That said, I appreciated the chance to revisit Barolo (they performed well in a Sound Dish-Off earlier this year) without expectation to write about it. Then, I was surprised to like it so much, that I feel compelled to tell you why.

The reason: Branzino alle Olive Bianche e Pomodori Appassiti. The rest of the food that evening was fabulous, and I ate a lot without feeling overstuffed, but this Chilean sea bass dish was something special. Perfectly cooked (and while I love fish, it takes a lot to impress me), with the Castelvetrano olives imparting a perfect briny-ness and the tomato confit packing a powerful “out of season” tomato taste.

Barolo’s a beautiful place, but for me, the plate’s more important to the place. I’m pleased to report that the branzino is a thing of beauty. And it’s on the menu for the rest of the month.

Barolo Ristorante (Metropolitan Tower) on Urbanspoon



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